In an ever changing London restaurant scene where many restaurants are making adjustments and others closing, Six By Nico have opened their first London restaurant.
The menu is a tasting menu that changes every six weeks, with the first six weeks serving up “The Chippie” – a finer dining play on the classic fish and chips menu many of us know and love. “The Chippie” menu is exactly what I needed on this Sunday.
A welcome drink of Earl Grey, lemon, samphire and prosecco has a novelty sherbet touch making my cocktail glitter as I stir in the sherbert. Snacks are not included in the six courses but they are most certainly not to be avoided. Sourdough bread with shellfish butter is what I’m dreaming of as I type and the filo cannelloni with taramasalata with lemon gel and feta caviar was both flavoursome and beautifully presented. Here are the six clever courses we enjoyed:
Chips and Cheese – I already knew this was going to be good. I was glad to be given a spoon to scoop up the delicious dream that was the parmesan espuma. The brandade croquette coated in vinegar powder was a fitting tribute to the humble bag of chips with lashings of vinegar. The curry oil and brown sauce just bring back Friday night memories.
Scampi – Oh how I’ve missed this regular order at the local chippy and how intrigued I was to see Nico’s adaptation. This is no local chippy so the scampi comes in the form of Scrabster monkfish cheek in a dill emulsion with gribiche, peas and beurre blanc. Absolutely delicious. The entire plate was put together so well and the flavours and textures married together seamlessly. Paired with a vinho verde from Portugal, this wine was crisp and complemented the stronger flavours well.
Steak Pie – Not one of my regular orders from the chip shop but another hearty British classic. I tucked into my Speyside beef shin with gusto, thoroughly enjoying the combination of flavours from the burnt onion ketchup, ‘meaty salsa’ and mushroom duxelles. An Argentinian Malbec was the wine accompanying this course; the red berry fruits immediately identifiable but subtly masked by a hint of spice.
Fish Supper – I advise against turning your nose up at the cod as it’s no ordinary cod; Shetland is famed for its seafood, with its waters housing quite the catch. In addition to this, the North Sea is freezing with choppy waters, so there’s often more fat on the fish there. Accompanied by pickled mussels, confit fennel and samphire, the dish was brought together with a beer emulsion and washed down with a Côtes du Rhône Blanc.
Smoked Sausage – Forget all you know about that battered sausage (the one we all secretly devour on the way home as we can’t wait to dig into our fish and chips) and enter the trio of pork; pulled variations and a loin – I couldn’t choose which I loved more. You’ll be the same, as long as you eat each mouthful with an even serving of the black pudding, apple, salt baked celeriac and choucroute. A German Pinot Noir surprised me as I’ve never had this grape variety from Germany before but it paired well.
Deep fried Mars Bar – Oh Nico. Oh yes. Chocolate cremaux with a deep fried mars bar, blood orange sorbet and cocoa nib. Is there a more perfect end to a meal? I think not.
Priced at £35, this may well be one of the least expensive tasting menus and great value, considering the size of each course. Wine pairing is available for £33 extra or there is a wine list and bartenders ready to mix up your favourite cocktails too.
See you in six weeks for the next run!
Keep up with the six week concepts at sixbynico.co.uk
All imagery courtesy of Six by Nico.
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