I grew up in the North West, and until the age of 11, when we took our first family trip abroad, holidays were predominantly taken in nearby North Wales. So, the opportunity to visit again places that I hadn’t seen for over 20 years caused mixed feelings. Would I feel the same fondness? Would places I knew as a child have changed for the better or worse now I was viewing them through adult eyes?
This trip was undoubtedly going to be different, and not just because of the amount of time that had passed. This time I was heading to somewhere several cuts above the slightly damp cottages we stayed in when I was young; I was off to Palé Hall, a five-star Relais & Chateaux property with a reputation for fine dining.
Arriving in Style
The drive to North Wales from the south definitely adds to part of the appeal. Once you’ve crossed the Welsh border, for the last hour, you really feel like you are travelling through a different world. You head up into the hills of Snowdonia, and the landscape takes on a rugged, moor-like quality; in the place of diminishing trees, thickly coated sheep graze impassively, fringing the roadside. We reached Palé Hall at dusk, down a short drive with dark centennial trees, yews and conifers and a huge monkey puzzle to see the illuminated house, golden in the lamplight. Palé Hall is a large Victorian house built in honey-coloured stone, surrounded by a 50-acre estate. There’s no light pollution here, deep as in the Welsh countryside, and the moon’s and stars’ brightness add to the romance of your first impressions.
Feeling at Home
It’s certainly a beautiful building, and the minute you arrive the welcome is warm. The team will park your car, walk you past a roaring fire, hand you a glass of something lovely and seat you in an impressive entrance hall. Palé Hall wasn’t built as a hotel, it was built as a home, and current owners Alan and Angela Harper originally didn’t intend it to be one; it was to be their home. I think this is the overriding feeling I experienced staying there; it felt homely. Admittedly this is a very grand home, but there is something about the décor, stylish though it is, that feels like it has evolved gradually, with love and personality over time, rather than suddenly having a designer sweep through and give it one homogenous look.
Palé Hall is a place to relax and be slow. There are five different spaces to sit, be absorbed by a book, have afternoon tea, or enjoy a drink before or after dinner. Each has its own character, and each room is carefully restored so you can appreciate what it would have been like back in the 1870s when the house was first built. Staff are proud to work here; ask them a question about any facet of history or décor, and they will respond enthusiastically and knowledgeably.
Indulgent Drinking and Dining
Our first evening was spent in The Library, unwinding after the drive with drinks and canapés, which was quite literally a taste of things to come. I enjoyed a Da Mhile Seaweed Gin and local tonic scattered with fragments of rose petals. This unlikely combination inspired a delightful balance of floral and mineral. And the canapés were just exquisite, light and packed with flavour – the chicken liver mousse with Asian spice in a parchment-thick crisp pastry case was a highlight.
The food here is a serious business, and the team recommend you give yourself around two and a half hours to enjoy dinner.
The pale turquoise Henry Robertson Dining Room is elegant and, in the candlelight, feels feminine despite its name. Head chef Gareth Stevenson creates a five-course or eight-course tasting menu; the former seemed quite indulgent enough for us. My favourite course was the first one, Nori and Yuzu Cured Trout. It was light and delicate, modern and pretty with the mildness of cucumber pearls contrasting with the acidity of apple, and the trout was perfectly smoked, not too strong or salty. The pollock of the fish course was well-cooked, too, with a sweet beetroot disc working well against the richness of the beurre blanc and celeriac purée, while my main meat dish was a rich, robust ox cheek on a potato rosti. I felt the absence of a crisp green vegetable there, but no doubt meat lovers would have been very happy.
Two desserts followed; the first, which I found more to my taste, was a kind of deconstructed apple crumble, the other a tart-sweet range of rhubarb confections. As it should, Palé Hall makes a virtue of using local suppliers, and the freshness of the flavours throughout our meal was no doubt a testament to this.
Accommodation, With or Without a Canine Companion
Bedrooms in the main house are all individual and characterful, varying from compact and quirky to grander and more indulgent. We were staying in one of the converted outbuildings, in one of three Garden Suites that also welcome four-legged guests. It had a relaxed lounge area downstairs and a comfortable bedroom upstairs. There’s also Harper’s Barn with two bedrooms, suited to a family or group of friends and with direct access to Palé Hall’s gorgeous grounds. Even in winter, it was fun exploring them and encountering a group of Shetland ponies and their donkey pals.
Worthy of Exploration
While it might be tempting just to stay put and enjoy Palé Hall itself, particularly during the colder months, it does make sense to get out and explore. We tried to go to Portmeirion, but it was the day before it reopened after a winter break. If you have never been, go! This Italianate village was built over a fifty-year period by Welsh architect Clough Williams Ellis. Its setting is spectacular, overlooking the River Dwyryd and full of whimsy, colour and charm. It’s also full of tourists on summer weekends, so choose the day and time of your visit carefully.
The craft shops of Porthmadog are worth a browse, and the little village of Borth-y-Gest just along the coast, with its colourful beachside houses, is a photogenic gem. We used to head to Criccieth as a family, with its pebbly beach and ruined castle. It’s small and still charming; great little food shops, simple cafés and arts and craft shops that are stylish, not just folksy. This is a region of castles, there are more in Wales per square mile than anywhere else in Europe, and the impressive castles of Caernarvon and Harlech are within easy reach of Palé Hall.
In a Nutshell
This part of the world has a wholesomeness that I like. It’s not that much different than when I was a girl, still getting visitors from the North West and further afield who enjoy the rugged landscapes, the simple pleasure of a blustery beach, and the freshest fish and chips. This is not London-on-sea, unlike some destinations closer to the capital. Perhaps being so much fought over has added to the region’s strong sense of identity. While as a region, it’s not as expensive or wealthy as its south coast rivals, and this is not far from a disadvantage for the visitor. There are plenty of treats to be had, particularly if you have a luxurious base like Palé Hall. North Wales is very proudly Welsh, full of history and unpretentious. My fondness for the area, reignited by my visit to Palé Hall, will remain undimmed.
To discover more, visit: palehall.com
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All imagery courtesy of Palé Hall.