Le Meurice has quirk. What I mean by this – and I see it as a virtue – is that this is a hotel with a few rather unexpected notes of eccentricity. As one of the Dorchester Collection’s two hotels in Paris and the second one I visited with my 18-year-old daughter after Hôtel Plaza Athénée, you might anticipate the grandeur and tradition of the London hotel that gives the group its name. That’s present at Le Meurice, of course, but it’s counterpointed. Allow me to explain…
Welcomed in Quite Some Style
Let’s start with the doorman. Generally they are top-hatted or have a cap akin to that of a chauffeur. At Le Meurice there were a gaggle of gentlemen to welcome us, one with an unusual tifter that sloped sharply down towards the back and had a faintly Tyrolean look about it. It provoked quite the smirk on my teen’s face – to which I responded with what I hoped was a suitably admonishing glare.
Check in was swift and efficient, mind you, and we were shown to our suite and around it by a keen young chap, with one of those indeterminate accents that indicate an international schooling. And gosh what a suite! I’ve stayed in lots of hotels over the years and some rooms are fabulous, but you can feel a sense of relief to return to the calm and familiarity of your own bedroom, even if it’s not uber-glamorous. This one, however, I would happily have picked up, replicated and taken home with me.
Our Suite
Le Meurice is on the Rue de Rivoli, facing the Tuileries gardens, with the spectacular buildings of The Louvre to your left and the Place de la Concorde to your right. It is a truly splendid location. As we were there in April, the trees were wearing their fresh new leaves, and looking beyond the light, bright green of the canopy you have so many of Paris’s monuments in view. The Eiffel Tower of course, but also Les Invalides and in the distance the Tour Montparnasse. The view is possibly even more magical at night; with buildings shimmering against a dark petrol blue nightscape.
Back to the suite; there was a freshness to the classic stylings of the décor. Bone walls, with accents of pale celadon green and soft raspberry in the furnishings gave a welcoming air. We had been left two edible treats alongside a chilled bottle of fizz. Here was another element of originality that we loved; Cédric Grolet is the executive pastry chef at Le Meurice and our amenities were clever trompe l’oeil confections. One a rosy-red apple, perfect for Snow White, was actually coloured chocolate filled with apple puree and (I think) crème pâtissière. The other was an oversize coffee bean containing a smooth, bitter-sweet mousse. We loved the style and surprise of them both.
With both a sitting room and a generous bedroom our suite was light and airy, art on the walls was interesting and instead of the usual coffee table books there were monographs on fashion photography. Both the teen and I agreed, this was all pretty cool!
Dans le Quartier
Now the Rue de Rivoli itself doesn’t offer the world’s finest shopping, it’s a bit souvenir-tastic if truth be told, so if you do want to stretch your legs and explore, then take a spin around the formal garden gorgeousness that is the Jardin des Tuileries. If you’re looking for style, head back two streets to the Rue Saint-Honoré and the Place Vendôme. The latter is quite the epicentre for fine jewellery: with Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet and other prestige brands rubbing shoulders, window shopping here is a glamorous affair.
And of course, there’s The Louvre. My only advice on visiting The Louvre is go with a plan and don’t exhaust yourself. Far better to decide in advance what you really want to see and make a beeline to it, rather than do the ‘museum shuffle’ around for hours until you are dead on your feet and your brain can take no more!
After our early evening stroll, we returned to Le Meurice (past the chap with the hat, studiously avoiding his and each others’ eye contact) and in to dine in Restaurant Le Dali. The name is significant; Spain’s famous surrealist would visit Le Meurice every year over three decades for a month or more at a time. Dali’s showmanship, a precursor to today’s performance art, even took place at Le Meurice; so the story goes he pedalled down the corridors and once brought in a hired herd of goats!
Dramatic Dining Settings
Though Le Dali is the more informal dining option at Le Meurice, it’s theatrically designed by Philippe and Ara Starck to echo the artist’s eccentricity. Dominated by a hand painted canvas that drapes the ceiling, it’s a dramatic room. Furniture is bold and mismatched, but the colour scheme of gold, caramel and chocolate brown unites the space. When we arrived a jazz trio were playing, while tables were filling with what looked in the most part like an international audience, guests, rather than Parisians.
Having had such an indulgent couple of days, my girl and I kept dinner relatively simple. She went for a French classic, a gloriously gloopy French Onion Soup – which was hearty and delicious, followed by that not so French classic Fish & Chips, which, after all our ambling, was quickly despatched. I on the other hand plumped for the Veal Escalope; a hugely generous portion accompanied by a crisp salad, it was perfectly tender. Our choices probably didn’t do the chef’s talent justice, but the beauty of a menu like that at Le Dali is that there are ‘comfort’ dishes alongside more refined ones. Service was, as you might expect, smiling and efficient. Despite the myriad of possible attractions, we didn’t go out after dinner, instead opting to soak up the atmosphere of this bold space, people watch and enjoy the music before heading up to our suite, to admire the night-time views and sink into comfort.
Breakfast the next morning was in the fabulously ornate space that houses Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse. Le Meurice is one of the handful of ‘palace’ hotels in Paris and I’m sure this room plays a huge role in it having that status. Created between 1905-07 it was inspired by the Salon de la Paix at Versailles and its Grand Siècle opulence is contrasted with sleek modern furniture by Philippe Starck once again. We sat at one end of the room, remaining agog at the gold, the mirrors and the wall paintings while our juices, eggs and delicious pancakes arrived.
In a Nutshell
Choosing between the two Dorchester Collection properties in Paris would be an impossible task. Though they each have a distinct style and character, what they share are great locations, stunning interiors and brilliant teams. Defining luxury is notoriously difficult, but for my daughter and me on this short trip to Paris, being surrounded by such beauty and feeling free to do exactly what we wanted, when we wanted – well, that felt like the ultimate luxury.
To discover more, visit: dorchestercollection.com/le-meurice
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All imagery courtesy of The Dorchester Collection.