Do you know what LED stands for? Despite knowing about the word for a long time (LED Christmas trees, anyone?!) I never actually understood what it meant and how it actually functions. LED stands for Light-Emitting Diodes, and LED therapy is currently being discussed all over the beauty world as a non-invasive alternative to anti-ageing, brightening and overall healing. But does it actually work?

The science

Originally developed by NASA for use by injured or ill astronauts on long-term missions, light-emitting diode therapy is now used today as a safe and natural method of treatment for a variety of skin and pain conditions including acne, wrinkles, accelerated ageing skin, melasma, psoriasis, wound healing and even hair restoration.

But in order for use on delicate skin, the LEDs must use ‘low-level light’ as anything higher in power could prove damaging. Light therapy, also called phototherapy, is exposure to light at controlled wavelengths in order to treat a variety of medical disorders in skincare and beyond. Unlike ultraviolet light (UV) that we get through sun exposure and can cause ageing, wrinkles and discolouration, these lights have been marketed as ‘good’ for the skin.

Different colours of light and uses

There are different types of phototherapy lights available to treat different conditions. Each type uses a different colour light, and here are the most common:

• Blue light therapy: Blue LED lights are similar to the lights emitted from your mobile phone and have a short wavelength. Blue lights give off a blue hue and are a common form of treatment for people with active acne, oiliness and inflammation. When blue light is absorbed by the skin, the body starts producing toxic free radicals which can kill off the acne-causing bacteria.
• Red light therapy: Red LED lights are lights that have a red hue and a longer wavelength than blue light. These lights act as energy givers to all cells, by helping to stimulate collagen production (which gives skin its structure, strength and elasticity, and also decreases in supply as you age) and blood circulation. It can help to speed up the healing of wounds and can also help to reduce superficial signs of ageing such as wrinkles, pigmentation, redness and acne.
• Near-infrared light therapy (NIR): This light is invisible to the human eye and reaches even deeper into the body than red light. Due to the deeper penetration, this light can help stimulate cellular energy metabolism and energy production, with anti-inflammatory, wound and muscle repairing and even bone-healing effects.

PSA: For the purposes of this article, as I don’t have active acne, I will be looking at red light and near infrared therapy only. Red and near infrared light therapy applies specific wavelengths of light (usually around 630 nanometers for red, and 830-850 nanometers for NIR on at home devices) on your skin.

Is it safe?

Red light therapy has been used safely by doctors and dermatologists on their patients for many years. Still, despite the medical nature of this approach, LEDs do have distinct benefits—they’re non-invasive, pain-free, and essentially harmless, so especially good for those afraid of needles, with sensitive skin, or those unable to afford regular trips to the dermatologist.

However, if products are misused — perhaps used too often or not according to directions — there’s a chance your skin or eyes (if not protected) could be damaged.

The product

I decided to try out one of the more famous brands of LED mask, the Omnilux Contour mask, and put it to the test. I went for Omnilux as they ticked various boxes:

• The power. This is one of the most potent home-use LED masks on the market, the highest with an energy output of ~35mw/cm2 (Milliwatts) and this specific mask (‘Contour’) generates no heat or UV light. The mask also provides both red (633 nanometers) and near-infrared (830 nanometers) wavelengths of light.
• The surface area. With 132 LEDs (66 red and 66 near-infrared) encased in 66 bulbs, it offers a larger treatment area, delivering strong results.
• Science-backed. All Omnilux light therapy, including Contour, is proven to be safe, with no adverse side effects, pain, or downtime, as evidenced by validation in over 40 peer-reviewed clinical studies and almost two decades of experience in the field.

Initial views (before use)

I like that despite the mask not being wireless, it connects to a small portable handheld device so you can walk around/make some tea while wearing your mask and get on with your day.

The mask is made out of silicone so is bendy and can even be used on other parts of the body which makes it worth every penny! It also handily switches off automatically after 10 minutes, so there’s no chance of there being any overexposure to the lights.

My skin issues

The main problems I have with the skin on my face are faded acne marks on my cheeks and slightly in the middle of my forehead. I also suffer from hyperpigmentation (darker skin) around my eyes, leading to the dreaded ‘dark circles’ and also have hyperpigmentation around my lips and chin area, which is normal for people with more melanin in their skin/people of colour.

I also have combination skin that errs on the side of dry, alongside dehydration across my T-zone area. I do however have good elasticity and overall skin condition for my age, thanks to using sunscreen religiously every day for the last 13 years and retinoids/retinoid alternatives for the last 7 years.

The results

Given these products need to be used long-term (at least 4-6 weeks of regular use, followed by consistent top-ups), it will take time to see lasting results. If you do see results, they are likely to be subtle. If you have specific problems or skin conditions that you would like treated, it is still best speaking directly to a medical professional or dermatologist who will be best placed to provide advice.

Saying that though, using this LED mask really surprised me. I didn’t have the highest expectations, being a natural born cynic of most things, but after around 2 weeks of use, I noticed brighter, slightly smoother skin. I had been using the mask as per the instructions, so for 10 minutes a day, 3-5 times a week.

I also wanted to try and use the mask alongside topical skincare products to see if that made a marked difference. You are supposed to have clean skin before using the mask, and then use any serums or potions immediately after for maximum efficacy.

So, around the 3 week mark, I used the Omnilux enzyme powder cleanser in advance of using the mask, which helped to gently exfoliate and slough off dead skin so that my face was prepped and primed for magic of the lights.

Just before putting on the LED, I used the Omnilux peptide concentrate to see if it could help with some of my fine lines and dehydration lines. After the mask was finished, I gently rubbed what was left on my face and found my skin had absolutely loved the serum. It felt like the hydration had been locked into my face and my dark patches were less dark.

After around 4 weeks of use according to the instructions and the cleanser/peptide combo, I had people start to compliment me on my make-up free skin. This is a big deal for me as if you’ve been lucky to see me without makeup, it wasn’t exactly the nicest sight. I started feeling more confident in my makeup free skin and could see a direct brightening difference around my lips and eyes – it looked a lot more even-coloured and rejuvenated.

I would not hesitate to recommend LED therapy as part of a broader skincare regimen and was pleasantly surprised by how smooth and plump my skin felt after 5 weeks of consistent use. While the results are no replacement for using SPF or over the counter/prescription retinoids, LED therapy can be a quick and easy add-on to your skincare routine that can provide understated differences to your skin over time.

To discover more, visit omniluxled.com

A different kind of mask

I would also recommend a different kind of mask, a topical one coming from one of skincare’s most innovative premium brands, EviDenS de Beauté. Combining the efficacy and power of Japanese skincare with the glamour and elegance of the French, this brand has newly launched the ‘Extreme Mask’, available at Harrods London.

The brand’s most innovative product yet, this mask nourishes and repairs skin. With its extremely rich texture, this mask provides instant comfort for the skin. It is enriched with the 360°Skin Perfecting Complex, which boosts cell regeneration and the skin’s self-defence capacities, providing optimal hydration and reduces the appearance of dark spots and skin irregularities. Also featuring the newly created star ingredient, GlucoSkinX3, it protects and strengthens the skin barrier with bonding ceramides. A truly luxurious and unparalleled experience for the skin.

Available online and in-store at Harrods.

All images courtesy of  Omnilux, Harrods and Unsplash.