The Matfen Hall Hotel. A bastion of British domestic holidaying and something we can be very proud of. For one our beautiful countryside is littered to an extraordinary extent with aristocratic mansions, a hangover of a wealthier, more industrious and illustrious time. Landed gentry would wander the world making their fortunes in a variety of fascinating ways, and yes, today some of those ways are becoming more complex to unpick. But let’s stay away from a heavy socio-political debate and focus more lightly on the array of stunning homes that were left in its wake. The First and Second World Wars put pay to a vast number of these family’s wealth, but those that didn’t fall into disrepair or get snapped up by the National Trust/taxpayer, have become 5 Star hotels – often with the obligatory Golf Course and Spa.
Through my journalism work I’ve had the fortune to sample some of the better ones that we find throughout the countryside. But in Matfen Hall Hotel, in the Northumberland countryside, I think I’ve found one of my favourites and I wouldn’t know it exists if it wasn’t for a sweet 95-year-old lady, with a penchant for a Murray Mint, coming home after years living abroad.
The “Why”?
My wife’s grandmother has lived in Spain for many years and decided that it was time to finally come home to Durham – accepting a rather noticeable temperature difference and a lack of immediate seaside or sangria. Given her former residence she hadn’t met her first grandchild and I intended to do something about it.
Not one to miss an opportunity to enjoy a break with wife and child, I looked to find a nice hotel nearby for us to fix ourselves whilst visiting her – her little ex-miner’s cottage wasn’t ready to take the tsunami that comes with a travelling toddler. A little Google and I came across Matfen Hall Hotel, not too far away and it looked lovely. Pool for the little one to have a paddle, large rooms to accommodate his various accoutrements and some sumptuous looking restaurants to keep Mum and Dad fed and watered. I have to say it wasn’t a focused decision, we were up there to visit family, but it ended up being the most surprising piece of luck.
Arrivals
Upon arrival at the hotel, the valet was so helpful it almost became overwhelming – I’m all for a hand with our bags but I’m fairly sure he would have written this article for me if I’d asked him. But when a toddler brings with it more luggage than an NFL team, I was glad of the help. I parked my car in the EV area, where one can find easy-to-use (and importantly, free) chargers. The idea of a free overnight charge is such a boost for us paranoid electric car owners.
The rooms
The entrance hall of this wonderful hotel has to be seen to be believed, it is nothing short of cinematic. If you told me Harry Potter was filmed there I wouldn’t be surprised – the huge vaulted Gothic ceilings, carved wood surrounds and gargantuan stained-glass windows make you feel like you’re in Westminster Abbey and a Downton Abbey episode at the same time. Simply stunning. The long, slow walk up the sweeping wooden staircase felt romantic and peaceful – it was long and slow because each step was so large it took my 2-year-old about 10 minutes to cover it. But it was one time I didn’t mind slowing down and enjoying my surroundings – it’s always hard to lose the London pace when in the countryside but Matfen has an all-encompassing air of ‘everything’s going to be fine, just relax.’
After our elongated approach, we made it to our room. I say ‘room’ with a large handful of aristocratic salt; I think the ceilings were high enough to fit a two-story house inside. The only way to describe our room at Matfen is to see it as a scale model. Everything in there felt like it was 1.5x a normal bedroom – yes it has all the regular stuff; a bed, wardrobe, sofa, table, desk – but the distance between these things allowed for such space and freedom that you could genuinely build walls in the room, and it feels like a generous detached house. For my little one, entering this room after living in a first-floor flat was akin to a captive Lion finally discovering the Serengeti. He ran around with wild abandon and the wonderful bonus of not bumping into anything. We lightly unpacked and headed out to explore the building.
Taking a Tour
The ‘Retreat’ Spa is newly refurbished, and the gym and pool have plans to have a bit of a facelift as well – the money committed to this hotel is staggering. The house has stayed in the same hands for generations and therefore the love and care poured into the place comes seemingly without budget or corporate nitpicking. And it shows. The spaces are beautifully laid out, well designed and all permeate a relaxed ease. Exactly what one needs after the pressures of city life and new parenthood. A quick dip in the pool was demanded by the young one and we were happy to acquiesce – getting him out however was another matter.
Towel-dried and ready for bed we dropped the little one back in the palatial suite before deciding to explore the grown-up elements of the hotel. The 1832 Bar is a classy, wood paneled room with a barkeep full of skill and charm (The Needham Bar is another option, with, I’m sure just as good a barkeep). Perfect Negronis delivered and we decided to venture out onto the terrace to enjoy the last of the evening light before dinner. Sat outside this stunning house, looking over the sweeping golf course is quite a thing – I’ve always felt a golf course is for so many more people than just the golfers. The landscaping and rich green warmth they envelope every country house hotel in, can only be enjoyed in the sumptuous English countryside. No one does it better.
I won’t profess to be the next Tiger or Rory, but I’m told the 27-hole course (3 nine hole loops) is extremely well respected and it caters for all levels. Although the 5th hole on the Standing Stone loop is particularly tricky, don’t let anything drift to the right or it’s in the woods. Apparently. The Keepers Lodge I’m also told is a wonderful ‘19th hole’ with good food and drink and a place to unwind and forget the day’s lost balls.
Time to Dine
Dinner at Matfen comes with three options. We opted for the subterranean and newly open Cloisters Restaurant (there is also a fine dining offering in The Emerald Restaurant), most of which sits in between and underneath what was once a courtyard in the hotel. So, it comes with double height ceilings, exposed stone walls and a wonderful glass ceiling. This is also where we had breakfast – instead choosing the more cellar-like section – also beautifully designed but completely different. This hotel has a real ability to create so many different areas, energies and styles whilst all of them feeling like they fit happily under one roof.
A few too many glasses of wine and we sloped up the sweeping stairs back to the room and had one of the most peaceful night’s sleeps in a long time – the beds are the size of a 2-car garage so stretching out certainly wasn’t a problem.
Rise and Shine
After a glorious breakfast for the family, we headed off to meet a certain special lady, feeling more restful and cheerful than we could have hoped. The arrow-straight, overtly Roman roads, that surround the hotel and the wider Northumberland landscape, slipped us quickly and easily to make the big visit we’d come all this way for. Needless to say, 4 generations of one family in one place is something that doesn’t happen very often. Tea was savoured, cake was cut, and stories were exchanged. Yes, England is rather chilly but being near family warms the cockles somewhat.
After we had had our fill of tea and cake, we returned to our new Northern home at Matfen – so glad to be welcomed by the generous staff and our supersized suite.
Departures
We enjoyed another trip to the spa (I dipped into the gym which is surprisingly well-equipped for a hotel) and spent longer than we’d like prizing our boy away from the pool – always a compliment when someone refuses to leave. After we succeeded and tucked him away, we decided on room service this time – when a suite comes with a dining room table over-looking the endless grounds it seems silly to not have dinner at it. Sitting like Lord and Lady of the Manor, surveying our estate, my wife and I reflected on this surprising gem found tucked deep in the North of England. A place stuffed to the brim with personality and charm but also all the high-end traits you would expect to find in some of the country’s best hotels.
Our only criticism? That Matfen Hall is so far away! At least now we have a good reason to come back. (Thank you, Nana.)
To discover more, visit: matfenhall.com
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All imagery courtesy of Matfen Hall Hotel