It was a buzzing Friday night in Soho and after a long week at work, I was ready for something special. And here’s the thing… London isn’t exactly short on Japanese restaurants. From supreme Wagyu to authentic Tokyo-style ramen spots and Michelin-starred temples of sushi booked months in advance, the scene is already jam-packed. So, naturally, I asked myself, how could a brand-new Japanese-inspired restaurant possibly stand out? That’s exactly what I was about to find out at MOI (pronounced m-o-y), the latest opening promising an inspired take on Japanese cuisine with the best of British produce.
Soho’s New Showstopper
From the outside, MOI draws you in immediately. The location is prime people-watching territory, and you can’t help but glance in to see what’s going on. We were warmly welcomed, and I instantly spotted a familiar face from London’s luxury hotel and restaurant scene—a sure sign they’ve recruited some of the best in the business.
We were shown to our table by the window (my favourite spot for a bit of Soho theatre) and were introduced to our lovely Irish server, Finnbar, who was sweet, genuine and impressively knowledgeable. I love it when a restaurant’s team really knows their stuff. We were offered fragranced oshibori (warm towels), which was a charming nod to Japanese tradition, along with a refreshing welcome drink of pineapple, coriander seeds and green tea. My evening was already off to a good start.
Design Notes
MOI’s interior is a wonderful mix of textures and tones, where Japanese minimalism collides with Soho cool. The design is rooted in Japan’s affinity for nature and simplicity, with natural reclaimed woods and raw concrete as the canvas, softened by warm, low lighting. Step inside and you’re greeted by a lively bar area with high-top seating for casual drinks or a pre-dinner sake. From there, your eyes are drawn to the theatrical heart of the room, with two expansive kitchen islands and a hearth-style wood-fired grill, where chefs work their magic in full view.
The centrepiece, though, is the striking spiral staircase, sculpted from poured concrete, that sweeps you down to the lower ground floor. Down here, the mood changes. The atmosphere relaxes, and you find a 16-cover Sushi Kitchen and Omakase Bar, perfect for those who want to be up close to the craftsmanship. Tucked away is the Listening Room, which is inspired by Tokyo’s hidden dens in Shinjuku.
Masters of the Craft
MOI’s soul comes from the people behind it, and this is where the restaurant really flexes its credentials. At the helm is Group Executive Chef Andy Cook, whose experience includes a decade working alongside Gordon Ramsay, opening international outposts in Tokyo, New York, and London. He’s also been instrumental in major UK hospitality projects, from launching Soho Farmhouse to Kensington Roof Gardens. But it’s his five transformative years in Japan that give MOI its authenticity, a deep respect for seasonality, provenance and ingredients, evident in every dish.
Alongside him is Head Chef Nick Tannett, fresh from his role at Evernight and with stints at Endo at the Rotunda, Chiltern Firehouse, Kitchen Table and The Laughing Heart. His technical skill and understanding of Japanese techniques shine through in the precision of the menu.
On the drinks side, Head of Beverage Dino Koletsas brings a pedigree that includes Harrods, the Inception Group, and leading the team at The Langham’s world-famous Artesian Bar. His approach is as considered as the food—cocktails with storytelling at their heart, biodynamic wines, and sake sourced from small-scale, sustainable producers.
Guiding the overall guest experience is Group Operations Director Giulia Cappuccio, whose background spans Michelin-starred establishments including The Ledbury, KOL and the Gordon Ramsay Group. And on the floor, General Manager Tatiana Tholtova ensures everything runs with quiet precision, drawing on her years with Jason Atherton and as GM at HIDE. This is a hospitality dream team who are passionate, experienced, and wholly committed to making every detail count.
A Toast to the Drinks & Sake
MOI doesn’t just do food beautifully because the drinks programme is just as considered. The wine list champions low-intervention and biodynamic bottles from small-scale winemakers, with an ever-changing selection by the glass, so there’s always something new to discover.
The sake and shochu selection are just as curated, sourced from producers who share MOI’s ethos of sustainability and craftsmanship. Each bottle tells a story of the soil it came from, the climate that shaped it, and the hands that made it. We shared a warm carafe of Kenbishi ‘Sword & Diamond’ Yamahai Futsushu which was silky, toasty, savoury and transported me straight back to Japan.
The drinks menu feels like an extension of the kitchen. Thoughtful, creative, and rooted in seasonality and it makes MOI just as much a destination for a cocktail-and-sake evening as for a full dinner.
Not Your Average Starter-Main-Dessert
MOI does away with the usual menu structure. Instead, you’ve got two menus: a dedicated nigiri and sashimi list (recommended to start with), followed by the main menu split into Snacks, Raw, and three distinct cooking methods—Binchotan, Hornbeam, and Birch. It’s different, it’s intriguing, and it already set MOI apart from other Japanese-inspired spots I’ve tried in London. The focus is on balance and umami depth, with textures and temperatures playing an equally important role of each plate.
We began with the Chef’s Nigiri Selection:
- Charcoal-Seared Bream
- Hay-Smoked Trout
- Kombu-Jime Brill
- Hand-Dived Scallop
- Akami Tuna
- Aburi Otoro
- Shabu-Shabu Langoustine
- Mackerel
Each piece was a tiny masterpiece, presented on an elegant ceramic plate, the colours popping against the muted tones with shimmering pink tuna, pearly scallop, deep amber brill, and delicate garnishes. The flavours were precise, clean, and vibrant, with just the right balance of seasoning to let the quality of the fish shine.
We paired these with two cocktails: Head in the Clouds (British rose aperitif, cloudy sake, nasturtium), which was intriguing, delicate and subtly floral, and the Shiro Negroni (dry white port, potato shochu, yuzu sake) tasted bitter-sweet and aromatic.
Snacks & Small Plates
From the snack section, the Bluefin Tuna Onigiri with White Soy and Cured Yolk was compact perfection, each bite soft, savoury and deeply satisfying. The Tempura Lobster Claw with Curry Emulsion was a showstopper. The crisp batter gives way to sweet, tender lobster, with the curry sauce adding just enough warmth without overpowering.
The raw section brought us the Pineapple Rib Tomato with Smoked Cream and Toasted Nori. It was bright, juicy, and smoky in all the right places. Then the Black Bream Crudo with Blackberry Ponzu, which danced between sweet, tangy, and umami.
From the grill sections:
- Binchotan: Mazara Prawns with chilli and black pepper kombu butter. Smoky, buttery, with a satisfying kick.
- Hornbeam: Longhorn Short Rib with pickled daikon and roscoff onion. Rich, tender, perfectly offset by tangy pickles.
- Birch: Sladesdown Duck Dumplings with bone broth and wasabi duck fat. Deeply savoury and soul-warming.
Our cocktails for these courses were just as memorable: the Uchi Martini (Japanese gin, champagne cordial, white koji sake) and the Red Eggplant (tomato consommé, apricot, gin). Both were savoury, elegant, and completely unique.
Sweet Endings
Dessert kept the high standard going. The Chocolate Mousse with Tonka Bean and Jersey Milk Ice Cream was indulgent without being heavy, while the Shaved Ice ‘Kakigori’ with English Raspberry, Sansho, and Burnt Meringue was playful, refreshing, and a little theatrical.
A Fresh Hit for Soho
MOI isn’t just another Japanese restaurant, it’s a confident, creative newcomer that blends Japanese culinary tradition with the best of British produce and some genuinely original ideas. From the warm welcome to the inspired menu structure, the exquisite cocktails to the thoughtful sake list, it all just… works. Will I be back? Absolutely. MOI is an exciting opening for London, and the team has created something special here. In a city full of competition, this one stands out.
To discover more, visit MOI
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All Image Courtesy of Ely Bsc Photography and MOI.