As a luxury lifestyle journalist, I had the pleasure of experiencing an enchanting overnight stay at the Native restaurant, nestled within the historic Netherwood Estate.
Native, the brainchild of co-founders Ivan Tisdall-Downes and Imogen Davis, opened its doors on the 22nd of May 2024. Their culinary journey, which began a decade ago in Brighton, has seen them through markets, street food ventures and pop-up restaurants; with notable stops at Neal’s Yard, Borough Market, Osea Island and Brown’s in Mayfair. The current location at Netherwood Estate is a testament to their evolution, offering a refined yet relaxed dining experience.
Location
The anticipation was apparent as I arrived at the estate, which sprawls over 1,200 acres of pristine countryside on the picturesque Herefordshire/Worcestershire border. Owned by the charming Peta Darnley and her family, the estate is a harmonious blend of rustic elegance and modern luxury.
Despite its long history, with connections to the Mortimers in medieval times and the Earls of Essex during the Tudor period, the estate remains as pristine and unspoilt today as it has been for centuries, offering a tranquil escape in the English countryside. The estate offers two stunning and stylish exclusive-use holiday lets, Native restaurant (which houses two snug boutique rooms on-site) and a range of activities to entertain all ages.
Native at the Netherwood
In the illustrious realm of British heritage cooking, Imogen and Ivan stand as pioneers, with their culinary journey with Native dating back to 2016. Now, embarking on the next chapter, they venture into the picturesque Worcestershire countryside, where the landscape becomes their muse, guiding the creation of beautifully seasonal menus enriched by locally foraged and garden-grown ingredients.
The roots of their partnership trace back over a decade to their days at university in Brighton. Since then, they’ve traversed markets, street food scenes and pop-ups, cultivating a dedication to zero-waste kitchen practices and the use of sustainable, ultra-seasonable produce.
Their gastronomic odyssey has graced iconic locales like Neal’s Yard, Borough Market, Osea Island and most previously, Brown’s in Mayfair until December 2023. Ivan’s culinary prowess even landed him a spot on the esteemed Great British Menu, representing London and the South East in 2020.
Imogen’s upbringing on a rural farm nurtured her affinity for nature and the art of foraging wild food. Her experiences overseeing her family’s falconry business and managing Rufus the Hawk add a unique dimension to her culinary vision, driven by a passion for sustainability and a remarkable palate for wild British ingredients.
Meanwhile, Ivan’s journey includes stints at prestigious establishments like River Cottage HQ in Devon and a chef stage at Blue Hill Farm at Stone Barns in New York. Native’s inception in 2016 at Neal’s Yard marked the beginning of a culinary revolution, with a reputation for bold experimentation, including dishes featuring unconventional ingredients like squirrel, ants and hogweed, which garnered viral acclaim.
The Native at the Netherwood Dinner
Dinner at Native was nothing short of a culinary revelation. Due to maternity leave, Imogen Davies wasn’t present during my visit. However, Ivan Tisdall-Downes, a foraging enthusiast and wild food cook, alongside Head Chef Alex Lewis, orchestrated a symphony of flavours that celebrated the bounty of the estate’s agricultural gardens. The ultra-seasonal ingredients sourced from the kitchen garden and local suppliers ensured that each dish was a fresh, vibrant testament to sustainable gastronomy.
Upon entering the 32-seat restaurant, I was struck by the intimate and cosy ambience. The walls are a soft, neutral beige, providing a serene and unobtrusive canvas that lets other design elements shine. This subtlety is beautifully contrasted by sections of exposed traditional brick, adding a rustic texture and a sense of historical depth to the space.
Light brown wooden beams lend a touch of traditional craftsmanship, tying the room together and enhancing its rustic yet refined ambience. Large floor-to-ceiling glass windows line both sides of the restaurant, allowing natural light to flood the space by day and creating a softly lit, intimate setting by night; seamlessly connecting diners with the outdoors. Adding character to the space are historical artefacts adorning the walls, each piece thoughtfully selected to evoke nostalgia and provide a visual journey through the area’s rich history, sparking conversation and intrigue.
The adjacent courtyard provided a picturesque setting, perfect for a pre-dinner aperitif. For those seeking an even more exclusive experience, the private dining room upstairs accommodates up to 14 guests, making it ideal for special celebrations.
I opted for The Full tasting menu; a seven-course journey. The experience was a delightful exploration of textures and tastes, commencing with an enjoyable array of countryside-inspired snacks. The Morel Har Gow, filled with earthy morel mushrooms, set the stage, followed by the inventive Silage Taco and the comforting Mrs Dales’ Fidget Pie; toasted Hay Campaillou with Ampersand Butter, each bite whispered tales of the land’s abundance.
Transitioning seamlessly to the Angelic Alechedetigre, the Chalk Stream Trout stole the spotlight, its tender flesh dancing harmoniously with Champagne Rhubarb and Woodruff, creating a symphony of flavours that lingered on the palate.
As the journey continued, the Regeneration Risotto emerged as a testament to sustainability and innovation. Infused with Heritage Grains and Cover Crops, each spoonful of the creamy risotto exalted the richness of the land, accentuated by the exquisite flavour of Lincolnshire Poacher cheese.
The main course, Herdwick Lamb, showcased the epitome of seasonal indulgence. Paired with Wye Valley Asparagus and accented by the bold flavours of Black Garlic, the Lamb Kofte exuded a depth of character that spoke of meticulous craftsmanship and culinary prowess.
In a sweet finale, Thyme & Honey brought a touch of whimsy to the table with Blackcurrant Leaf, Bee Pollen and Chamomile Madeleines. Each delicate morsel was a tribute to its native environment, invoking a sense of tranquillity and satisfaction.
Petit Fours, the final flourish, presented an unexpected yet delightful array of flavours. Wood Ear Mushroom, Crab Apple Fruit Pastille and Shrewsbury Cake rounded off the meal with a playful twist, leaving a lasting impression that lingered long after the last bite.
The wine and cocktail offerings at Native are carefully curated to complement the menu. Collaborations with Les Caved de Pyrene, Passione Vine and Liberty bring an array of organic, biodynamic, natural and low-intervention wines. I particularly enjoyed the Native Negroni and the Meadowsweet Sour, both of which were crafted with the same attention to detail as the food.
General Manager John Lacombe’s 35-year experience in hospitality was evident in his impeccable service. His professional yet warm demeanour ensured that every guest felt like a VIP, adding a personal touch to the luxurious setting.
The zero-waste ethos at Native is commendable, with every aspect of the kitchen operation designed to minimise waste without compromising on taste or creativity. This commitment to sustainability extends to their relationships with local suppliers, including Aberdeen Angus beef from Underly Farm, mutton from Huntsman Court and wild boar from Shropshire. Fresh produce from Wye Valley Produce and Moorcourt Fruit Farm, further enhances the restaurant’s dedication to quality and locality.
In conclusion, Native’s tasting menu offered not just a meal, but a sensory journey through the land’s rich tapestry, where each dish reflected culinary excellence and a profound connection to the gifts of nature. With each bite, I found myself transported to the heart of the farm, where the true essence of luxury lay not in extravagance, but in the simple joys of wholesome, thoughtfully crafted cuisine.
The Native at the Netherwood Breakfast
My morning at Native began with an exquisite selection of breakfast delights that perfectly encapsulated the essence of local flavour and homemade charm. The freshly pressed apple juice from the nearby Netherwood Estate was a refreshing start, offering a crisp and vibrant taste that awakened my senses.
I then indulged in the homemade granola and berry compote, a delightful combination of crunchy and sweet that was both nourishing and satisfying. The homemade marmite, paired with locally sourced honey, provided a unique and flavourful twist that perfectly complemented the fresh homemade bread and butter.
The breakfast continued with a savoury spread featuring succulent salmon, and a beautifully crispy hash brown with mousse. To finish, a selection of locally sourced free-range bacon, sausage and egg; all of the produce cooked to perfection, highlighting the quality and care that goes into sourcing and preparing each dish.
Native at the Netherwood’s breakfast was a harmonious blend of homemade and locally sourced items, creating a memorable and delicious start to the day.
Our Room
I experienced Native at the Netherwood Estate’s dinner, bed & breakfast package, and it was the most wonderful escape! From Wednesday to Saturday, they offer two wonderfully cosy and comfortable bedrooms nestled in the courtyard garden of the restaurant, making for an idyllic retreat from the hustle and bustle of my home in London.
The room I stayed in was fantastic, featuring a super king-size bed that was incredibly comfortable and an ensuite shower room. The view across the courtyard to the restaurant was picturesque, adding to the relaxing atmosphere and making my evening feel extra special.
For my stay, I opted for a Saturday night, which cost £575 and included the full tasting menu for two, breakfast, and overnight accommodation.
While Native doesn’t offer concierge or housekeeping services since it’s a restaurant with rooms rather than a traditional hotel, the staff were incredibly helpful and did everything they could to make my stay enjoyable.
Overall, the Native dinner, bed & breakfast package was an ideal way to relax, enjoy excellent food and drink and sleep soundly in the wonderful Netherwood Estate. It was a memorable and rejuvenating experience that I highly recommend.
To discover more, visit nativerestaurant.co.uk
View this post on Instagram
All imagery courtesy of Native / William Tisdall-Downes.