It might be arguable that any food would ‘do’ in the Maldives. Why? Because we are in the Maldives, that boundlessly beautiful archipelagic state rasping in the sunshine, encircled by turquoise seas. At OZEN RESERVE BOLIFUSHI, a gastronomic all-inclusive weekend awaited.
I arrive in Malé in the rain, drivers honking outside as tourists hop into cars, waving umbrellas as they go; airport workers shelter under what are normally spots for necessary shade, smoking cigarettes and watching curious puddles form. Yet it is hot – not stiflingly so, but hot. And humid. The air feels thick and the sea is bouncing so I appreciate the air-conditioned airport lounge I am invited into for a drink. Not before long, I’m on a boat and drinking iced water and on my way to OZEN RESERVE BOLIFUSHI, a five-star resort on an island about 25 minutes by boat from Malé.
Drums, Petals, and Sunshine: The Ultimate Island Greeting
I don’t know whether you’ve seen the HBO series White Lotus but it’s hard to describe our welcome without comparison: we arrive and suddenly bursts of sunshine filter warmly through clouds; a row of happy staff are waiting, singing and playing the boduberu drum. Paradise much? Indefatigably. Suddenly all feels tropical and I am showered with flower petals and given a necklace before I’m taken to the spa to have my feet washed and massaged. And then I begin to eat.
Gastronomic delights at Ozen Reserve Bolifushi
The Maldives, it might be said, are less known for food than sun, sea and sand. Scuba diving, sailing and sea fishing are far more of a regular pursuit than fine dining, not that high-end food cannot be found. Actually, Maldives is a melting pot of some of the world’s finest ingredients, especially from the sea. At Ozen Reserve Bolifushi there are enough restaurants to percolate through an entire week; house wines come by way of a partnership with the Tenerifian winery Bodegas Viñátigo, and champagne from Guy Charbaut. I have Moët at the resort’s Indian restaurant Saffron – home to excellent thalis – one evening. Guy Charbaut beats it hands-down.
First, I’d like to talk about traditional Maldivian dining. I shall describe a typical day of eating. If you’re not a fan of tuna, by the way, you may as well stop now. You can still go to the Maldives, you just won’t be eating much of the brilliant local food.
Breakfast is called mas huni and is one of those dishes that might sound odd to Western palates but which is, I guarantee, a rewarding way to begin a day. The dish comprises tuna – sometimes dried and spiced – onion, coconut flakes, lime juice and chilli. It is usually eaten with a flatbread called roshi and Maldivians drink sweet hot tea, echoing India. My butler – everyone is given their own butler on Bolifushi – tells me that fresh leaves from plants that grow on the islands are added when available; similar, perhaps, to collard greens. Boiled squash or pumpkin is added when in season.
Maldivian lunch might be tuna and flatbreads, vegetables and fruit. For the purposes of this piece, I’ll present sambar and dosa or idli instead, because southern Indian and Sri Lankan cooking are huge in the Maldives, understandably. These mainland countries might be almost 1,000km away, from the Indian ocean and through the Laccadive sea, but cultures entwine nonetheless. Steamed fish, idli – a soft, sponge-like savoury dish made with fermented rice and lentil batter – and vegetable ‘curries’ are omnipresent.
Lunchtime at Ozen Reserve Bolifushi: From Curries to Cocktails
For lunch I am drawn to sambar and roti. Sambar is a sour vegetable curry enlivened by tamarind, okra and delicate leaves. Lentils are ideal fuel when swimming, sailing, snorkelling, or riding an inflatable sofa pulled by jet skis. And they are primary here. This curry together with one or two rotis feels fitting among the palm trees. If you find garudhiya or coconut rice, order it. Heaven prescribed.
Did I mention drink? Champagne is poured like water at Ozen Resorts and so is everything else; I try to fend off alcohol as long as possible and so it’s iced coffee up until around 2pm, when I tend to relent. Later, rum and Coke; it’s not the Caribbean but it works all the same. There is a comprehensive wine programme at both of the OZEN resorts in The Maldives, where 101 wines were included as part of the package, all organised by country. These 101 wine labels are available across all the restaurants and within the in-villa ‘maxi’ bar, which was filled regularly. A brand new ‘best all inclusive’ category was introduced for the first time to The World of Fine Wine’s annual ‘World’s Best Wine List Awards’ last autumn and OZEN RESERVE BOLIFUSHI was the winner for the Asia region, winning ‘Best all inclusive wine list’ as well as ‘Best spirits list’ in Asia.
A luxurious Maldivian dinner will be tuna – best cooked on a beach barbecue so that the fat renders, the edges char and the flakes become tender. Tuna is a kingly fish – comparable to steak. When cooked over flames, it is mighty.
It is also more heartening still when you consider the Maldivian tuna fishery is one of the most progressive in the world. The pole-and-line skipjack tuna fishery has been certified sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council since 2012; more than 50,000 tonnes are supplied to Europe and North American each year and the industry supports more than 30,000 livelihoods on the archipelago.
Coconut, Spice, and Tuna
In the Maldives, ever-idyllic and endlessly aquamarine, agriculture is practically non-existent, and so there is much less to celebrate when it comes to farming. Still, if anything grows well in the soil it is yams, a root vegetable not dissimilar to sweet potatoes. These, deep-fried, could be the French fries of the islands, especially with a coconut chutney and a chilli sauce.
I also recommend looking out for kulhi boakibaa, a classic fish cake made with smoked tuna, onions, ground rice, ginger, garlic, chilli and coconut; mas riha, or fish curry rich with spices; and boshi mashuni, a fragrant, cooling banana flower salad in which the leaves are blanched and shredded before being mixed with fresh coconut, curry leaves, lime and chilli. I’m not sure there is anything like it anywhere else in the world.
Indulgence Redefined: Dining at Ozen Reserve Bolifushi
Explorative, possibly, but the Maldives are about indulgence and excess. Ozen Reserve Bolifushi is ripe with cocktails, easy burgers, pastas and noodles. I try Soyi, a pan-Asian restaurant plump with dumplings, kung pao chicken and tempura prawns; and Sangu beach resort, kitted out with salads, Lebanese-style filled pitas and tapas. On my last night, I head to OriginƎ, perched out among the waves, and where a modern European menu brings caviar, grilled scallops, smoked salmon and wagyu beef with mushroom cream.
Salt-Washed and Satiated
November’s on-off weather allowed me to experience the food of the Maldives more rigorously than I might have. And so it might have been something of a blessing. I leave less tanned than I’d have liked, but having tried more local dishes than I would have had I been sitting on the beach sipping cocktails, I’m still very happy. After a short week, I am sailing back to Malé and the sun is beating down. I am full, replete, salt-washed and a little tipsy. The champagne never stops, tuna or not. It is quite an enchanting place.
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All imagery courtesy of Ozen Reserve Bolifushi.