King’s Cross – The gateway to France. Say bon voyage to that. There is a new way to reach our French friends to luxuriate in finger gastronomy that doesn’t require the Eurostar. Enter Victor Garvey at The Midland Grand. A chef-d’oeuvre in every sense, Michelin-starred chef Victor Garvey and renowned hotelier Harry Handelsman have teamed up to relaunch one of the UK’s most iconic dining rooms at historic St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel: The Midland Grand.
The room. Wow. What a room. Built in 1873, the room boasts one of the city’s most stunning architectural settings, with dim lighting, soaring triple-height ceilings and grand chandeliers that transport you back to the Victorian era. Rich copper walls lend a sense of warmth, while plush chenille armchairs provide an element of refined coziness. The addition of small cabaret lamps on every table enhances the intimate ambiance, casting a soft, speckled glow that hugs you with lushness. Together with the incredible food by Victor Garvey, this is a winning combination that created a really memorable dinner.
Victor Garvey
Victor Garvey is a genius. His move to London and the opening of SO|LA, which earned him a Michelin star for his Californian-inspired menus, marked the beginning of his partnership with Handelsman to reopen the Midland Grand dining room and revel in the fine art of French cooking.
The Menu Expérience
Victor Garvey’s menus are a tribute to the artistry of French gastronomy, blending the finest seasonal ingredients with modern culinary techniques to create dishes that are both refined and innovative. By incorporating his experiences and a passion for exceptionalism, the food is really a chef-d’œuvre.
The Menu Expérience features seven curated courses, blending tradition and innovation in modern French cuisine.
Our Menu Expérience highlights included:
- Le Jardin Méditerranée: This trio of canapes was a great start to the dinner. A herbed “creme cru” sorbet, gaspacho consomme, an olive praline, miso pointed pepper, brandade and confit yukon gold.
- La Sériole: The thinnest most delicate sashimi slices, paired with avocado, leek and tender almond.
- Le Foie: This was the highlight both visually and on the palate. A work of genius that celebrates everything about French gastronomy. The duck liver was so delicately marbled it looked like a piece of edible art, served with celery, granny smith apples and smoked eel. The creamiest, dreamiest foie in London. The celery adds a fresh crispness and the smoked eel deepens the dish, adding a subtle smokiness that contrasts well.
- Le Homard: This dainty little lobster was served with a seafood “boudin”, with piquillo and osmanthus. Spooned on top was the darkest lush lobster sauce. A spoon was definitely required for every last droplet.
- L’Agneau: A beautifully cooked piece of lamb with kalamata and morels. A huge contrast to the lobster and equally as technically skilled.
- La Pamplemousse: A great palate cleanser of grapefruit textures with vanilla, basil and kombava (citrus fruit).
- L’Opera: Geisha “Elida” (coffee) with 80% tuma yellow chocolate and marcona almond. A classical and texture-tastic end to the experience.
Our wine pairing by Emilio
Emilio Luiso curated the wine pairing with such elegance and approachability. It’s so refreshing when sommeliers know their stuff but make the whole experience so approachable and easy. Emilio is a great listener and the wine selection paired so well with the tasting menu, from classic and rare vintages from France and the rest of the world.
With a strong focus on Burgundy and Bordeaux, the wine list enhances the richness and complexity of dishes such as foie gras and duck. The Chardonnays and Sancerres provide a crisp acidity to balance the seafood, and the Champagne and dessert wines ensure a refined, well-rounded experience. Be sure to check out the Champagne trolley too which has some familiar favourites as well as some excellent British options.
What about the cocktails?
Beyond Midland Grand’s impressive drink selection, enjoy a pre-or post-dinner cocktail at Gothic Bar, right next to the restaurant. This architectural masterpiece led by Jack Porter, reimagines classic cocktails with modern techniques. Complementing the creations, Victor Garvey also offers refined bar dishes in a setting perfect for late-night dates, live music and readings.
The 2025 cocktail menu “The Art of Feeling” pairs emotions and art. Two signature cocktails that are a must-try from “The Art of Feeling”:
Grandeur: A decadently fresh milk punch with pear and marigold, balanced with champagne vinegar. Served with a pear made from the infused fruit and topped with herb-infused oil for added depth and texture.
Frivolity: A fresh, playful twist on a gimlet, this cocktail blends Sichuan-infused Renais gin with mint and coriander for a floral, herbaceous kick and a warm tingle. The herbs are crafted into an aromatic oil adding a unique flavour and texture.
To discover more visit: midlandgrand.com
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All imagery courtesy of Victor Garvey at the Midland Grand.