The promise of an iconic castle, fabulous food, and some of the best sparkling wines in France was not to be missed, and my weekend with Bouvet Ladubay promised all of that. Situated between Angers and Tours in the heart of the Loire Valley, it is easily accessible, with a two-hour train journey from Paris.
First impressions in the late afternoon September sun were immediately positive. We wandered through the charming medieval cobblestone streets of the old town, with its half-timbered houses built from the local white tuffeau stone. The eye is always drawn to the beautiful and imposing Château de Saumur, which imperiously overlooks the town, and then to the Loire and Thouet rivers, between which Saumur sits.
Cruising the Magnificent Loire
Early evening was a perfect time to board the Loire Évasion, a traditional wooden barge with our captain, Vincent, at the helm. As the sun set spectacularly around us, we sat and admired the monuments along the river and the flora and fauna of the Loire. The boat glided quietly along as we enjoyed a glass of Bouvet Ladubay ‘Saphir’ Saumur Brut, a beautifully classy fizz made from Chenin Blanc grapes.
Gastronomic Excellence
After a long day travelling, we repaired to the excellent Bistrot de la Place in the heart of the old town. With its local, seasonal menu and extensive wine list, this was a classic Loire experience. I started with the popular country terrine, moved on to the slow-cooked pork knuckle, and finished with a wonderful poached pear with garam masala, encased in a delicate almond biscuit.
Replete, we walked back to our centrally positioned hotel, Le Londres, and I had my best sleep for weeks in a delightfully comfortable bed.
A Fascinating Day at the Sparkling Wine Producer, Bouvet Ladubay
Bouvet Ladubay is not only one of the leading wine producers in the Loire Valley, but also one of the oldest. The winery was established in 1851 when the founding owner began making sparkling wine in the underground cellars of Saumur. Nowadays, the old cellars are still in use alongside an impressive production site where the emphasis is on the very best modern technology.
Bouvet Ladubay is fully family-owned, with employees who have worked there for generations, alongside relatives who worked there before them. It certainly feels like a family firm, one run with passion, ambition and a focus on combining history with modernity and absolute excellence.
The Saumur region of France is known for its sparkling wines, many of which are produced by the traditional method (used in Champagne making), as well as red wines made mostly from Cabernet Franc. Bouvet Ladubay produces some of the best sparkling wines in the Loire from the Crémant de Loire and Saumur Brut appellations, using Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc grapes. We learned that the wines are made and stored for a minimum of twelve months in oak-aged carrels in the cellar, and that the full cycle can take up to two years. The result is a range of excellent ‘Crémant’ wines — a category of sparkling wines made in France but not Champagne. Customers are increasingly choosing these wines for their quality, but also for their approachable price.
It was fascinating to follow the entire winemaking process, from the early fermenting stages through to bottling, corking, labelling and packing.
Our wine tasting of Bouvet Ladubay’s sparkling cuvées was both highly educational and extremely enjoyable. We could also have chosen a more unusual tour of the cellars. The cellars underneath the house extend to around 8 km in total, and a fun way to explore them is by following the guide on bikes equipped with lights. Perhaps next time.
A Trip Back in Time
An added highlight of our visit was the opportunity to explore the Bouvet Ladubay archives, housed in the upper part of this historical building. A fascinating element was the library of thousands of preserved wine labels, some dating back to the mid-1850s. Details of some of their earliest clients are also kept here, showing how the wines were shipped around the globe. The office of founder Etienne Bouvet remains intact, complete with original furniture. I thoroughly enjoyed my immersion in the history of the house, topped off with the chance to visit the small theatre that Etienne built for his employees.
Firm Focus on the 21st Century
This is not a wine-producing family focused solely on the past, but one embracing the present and future. Our day at Bouvet Ladubay ended with a visit to their Contemporary Art Centre, which opened in 1992. It was one of the first private art venues intended for the public in this part of France, and has presented works by nearly 100 artists since its opening. The white walls and vibrant exhibits on show demonstrate the desire of this wine-producing family to move forward constantly, whilst not forgetting what has gone before.
Château de Saumur
It would have been impossible to spend a weekend in Saumur without visiting the beautiful medieval castle that looks out over the town. Originally constructed in the 10th century, it has been home to princes, converted into army barracks and, at one time, used as a state prison. Since the early 20th century, it has been lovingly restored, and one can visit and enjoy fabulous views of the Loire as far as the eye can see.
A Diverse and Fascinating Weekend
Saumur really does have something for everyone, and this was just the start of a Loire journey that will undoubtedly be continued another time. Bouvet Ladubay will be celebrating its 175th birthday in 2026, which seems an added incentive to enjoy this beautiful part of France. Add in the gastronomic attractions of the region and the stunning places still to visit, and I am very sure that I will be back here soon.
All Imagery is copyright and courtesy of Bouvet Ladubay / bouvet-ladubay.fr / Instagram (@bouvetladubay).