There’s something ineffably charming about Spagnoletti and great Italian restaurants in London – a certain allure that lures us time and time again. Perhaps it’s how they transport us, without the need for a boarding pass, to a land of sun-drenched piazzas and rolling vineyards. The magic begins the moment you step inside. There’s a warmth, a friendliness that’s often missing from our polished, yet sometimes sterile, dining establishments. In an Italian restaurant, you’re not just a customer—you’re a guest, almost family.
Summer 2024 has brought a dazzling transformation to Spagnoletti London, the all-day restaurant nestled within The Megaro Hotel. This metamorphosis, steered by the new Chef Patron Adam Simmonds, a double Michelin star-winning luminary, is a celebration of honest and authentic Italian dishes. Simmonds, renowned for his tenure under Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and his star-studded stints at Ynyshir Hall and Danesfield House, has woven his passion for seasonality, sustainability, and provenance into every dish on Spagnoletti’s reimagined sharing menu.
As I settled into the whimsically retro-futuristic surroundings crafted by designer Henry Chebaane, I was immediately struck by the sheer audacity of the decor. Here, space-age furnishings collided with theatrical lighting in a bold salute to Charles Spagnoletti, the 19th-century engineer and inventor. The result was a glorious mash-up of modernity and history, an atmosphere both exuberant and intimate, like a Victorian time traveller who had crash-landed in a 1960s sci-fi flick.
Around me, tables were populated by trendy thirty-somethings who ordered with the confidence of seasoned regulars, their spritzes glinting in the ambient light. They had left their woes at the door, ready to embrace any customer.
The culinary journey began with La Latteria Burrata, a dish that sets the tone for Simmonds’ mastery. The burrata, creamy and rich, was paired with peas and broad beans, providing a delightful textural contrast. A whisper of truffle elevated the dish, adding a layer of earthy complexity that danced harmoniously with the freshness of the greens.
Next came the Vitello Tonnato, a classic Italian dish reimagined with Simmonds’ bold flair. Thin slices of tender and succulent veal were draped in a luscious tuna sauce. The balance of flavours—savoury veal, briny tuna, and the slight tang of capers—was impeccable, a symphony of tastes that lingered long after the last bite.
The Rabbit Lasagna with tarragon was a standout, showcasing Simmonds’ ability to transform humble ingredients into something extraordinary. The lasagna sheets were delicate and perfectly cooked, enveloping the rabbit filling that was rich and fragrant with tarragon. Each mouthful was a blend of comfort and sophistication – a dish that felt both familiar and novel.
An open ravioli of scallops, morels, wild garlic, and ginger followed, a dish that epitomises Simmonds’ culinary philosophy. The scallops were plump and sweet, their natural brininess complemented by the earthy morels and the aromatic wild garlic. A hint of ginger added a surprising twist, cutting through the richness and leaving a lingering warmth on the palate. This dish was a masterclass in balance.
The grilled octopus Salmoriglio was another triumph. The octopus, tender yet with a satisfying bite, was charred to perfection. The Salmoriglio—a vibrant, zesty sauce of olive oil, lemon, garlic, and herbs—provided a bright counterpoint to the smoky, oceanic flavours of the octopus. It was a dish that captured the essence of the Mediterranean, both robust and refreshing.
Dessert was a classic tiramisu, executed with precision and flair. The layers of coffee-soaked ladyfingers and mascarpone were light and airy, yet rich and indulgent. Paired with two glasses of Frangelico, it was the perfect ending to a remarkable meal. The hazelnut liqueur’s nutty, sweet notes complemented the tiramisu beautifully, a pairing that felt both luxurious and comforting.
The wine selection was equally impressive. We enjoyed a couple of glasses of Salice Salentino Riserva, a wine that perfectly matched the bold flavours of the dishes. Its deep, fruity notes and subtle spice were a delightful accompaniment, enhancing the dining experience without overpowering the food.
The allure of Italian restaurants in London lies in their ability to make us feel at home, to offer a slice of Italy’s rich culinary heritage, and to remind us of the simple pleasure of good food and good company. Spagnoletti London under Adam Simmonds is a revelation. This is not just a restaurant; it’s a testament to the beauty of Italian cuisine, reimagined with respect for tradition and a bold, modern twist. Each celebrates the finest seasonal produce, executed with precision and passion. Spagnoletti offers a dining experience that is both familiar and exciting, a place where the past and present collide in a symphony of flavours, aromas, and textures. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, a meal at Spagnoletti is a journey worth taking.
To discover more, visit spagnoletti.co.uk
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All imagery courtesy of Spagnoletti / The Megaro.