Currently Chef Director at the Cubitt House, restauranteur and author Ben Tish has been awarded and recognised nationally, with “Moorish” being named The Times Magazine’s “Cookbook of the Year.” His next book, “Mediterra,” will be published this spring. With a background that includes working with the Salt Yard Group and expertise in a range of cuisines from barbeque to Mediterranean tapas, Ben continues to innovate and inspire in the culinary world. For those interested in pursuing similar chef opportunities, you can explore roles on Jooble.
In a conversation with him, we uncovered Ben’s current projects, as well as how he insightfully pairs food and drink.
How did it all start?
Ben Tish: About 25 years ago, with a well-known chef called Jason Atherton- we are both from the same town. I wanted to move out and move to London, so after a chat with Jason I decided to become a chef. Simple as that. He got me my first job in London, at the Ritz, which I wouldn’t have got normally without any experience. I winged it as a second commis and got through it somehow. Needless to say, it was challenging.
Tell us all about the work you do with Cubitt House?
Ben Tish: I look after everything food and kitchen-related. My focus is food/menu direction, and my senior team helps fill in the gaps. I work closely with our head chefs on menus and seasonal changes. I’m also involved in group-wide events, activations and marketing.
I work very closely with Sam and Georgie Pearman, the Co-Chairs on the company direction, and we have a clear plan to grow at a steady manageable pace. We want individual pubs in a family as opposed to a chain. It’s a big job and thoroughly rewarding. While food is important, none of it is possible without a good team.
Tell us about the drinks offered across the Cubitt House pubs and how they match your food?
Ben Tish: Our drinks offering is broad and diverse. In terms of food matching, our head of wine is key in training the teams on wine specifics and matches, including beer matches. We take this element very seriously and training is at its heart.
We hear there is a lovely new breakfast at The Barley Mow. Tell us all about it?
Ben Tish: Yes, it has now launched! Chris Smith is the chef; he’s put together a mix of classics and some new dishes that will hopefully become signature dishes. We are focusing on quality produce and working with our suppliers Coombeshead, Hannan’s and Wright Bros. We want it to be Mayfair but with accessibility and fun. We’re going to sell bacon rolls in the pub to takeaway– they’ll be the best rolls you’ve had.
You have been hailed as a bit of a barbecue expert. Top three tips for awesome barbecue cooking?
Ben Tish: Haha, yes I do like to roll the barbecue out. I’d say get some decent charcoal and wood to start, it makes a difference to the cooking and flavour. British woodland charcoal is the best and most ethical. Steak is great on a barbecue but to get the most from it a slow cook really grabs the flavour. Something like lamb shoulder or pork belly are excellent as they’ve got plenty of fat. Use the dying ashen embers to slow-cook things like potatoes or root vegetables. Wrapped in foil with herbs and olive oil, it’s delicious.
How has the restaurant scene in and outside London changed in the last 10 years?
Ben Tish: Immeasurably- people’s tastes have changed, and people are more food sophisticated, so restaurants need to be more authentic or regional. Obviously, price point is now a focus and people demand great value for money. The biggest changes are from an HR perspective. We are much more focused as employers on welfare and happiness at work. The aim should be to bring our industry in line with other industries.
You have a book coming out this year. What is it all about?
Ben Tish: “Mediterra”, coming out in early July, includes food from the Mediterranean basin touching on all the countries: from Italy, Spain, and France to North Africa, the Middle East and beyond. It includes my take on classics and new dishes all bound by the Mediterranean ethos and produce; it’s my passion for the food culture of the Mediterranean.
Can sustainability in UK restaurants ever become the norm?
Ben Tish: There are many elements to how a restaurant can be sustainable, so that’s a big question. Everyone is making progress I’d say.
Any future dishes you are currently working on that you can tell us about?
Ben Tish: Currently I’m developing the menus at the Orange which relaunches in a few weeks. It’s an Italian focus with pizzas, pasta and grills. Lots of new dishes, including an old-school orange and Campari sorbet in an orange shell and wood-roasted suckling pig.
Top 3 favourite restaurants in the UK?
Ben Tish: I’ve just realised they all have cafe in the name! River Cafe Hammersmith, Cafe Cecilia Hackney, and Towpath Cafe in Hackney.
If you could award a Michelin star right now to a UK Chef, who would it be to and why?
Ben Tish: Max Rocha at Cafe Cecilia- on paper, it isn’t a star type of place, but judging by the recent awards, it could well be.
What is next for you?
Ben Tish: More Cubitt house stuff, reopening the Orange will be a big project and hopefully some more openings over the next year or so. We have a plan in place to grow which is exciting. I’m just trying to push things forward whilst keeping the ship steady! Writing the Cubitt House cookbook is a current project and promoting Mediterra. I’m also working on my next book proposal for Bloomsbury, which will focus on Southern Italy.
To discover more, visit: chefbentish.com
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All imagery courtesy of Ben Tish/Cubitt House.