Sicily in Spring
Sicily is beautiful at any time of year, but Spring is glorious, especially at Country House Villadorata. As we drove down from Catania to the baroque town of Noto, along the coast with the glimmering Mediterranean dipping in and out of view, the sun shone, and life was good. We had enjoyed a ridiculously well-priced linguine alle vongole in a small seaside town en route, and as we moved slightly inland, the spring flowers of all different colours were everywhere the eye could see.
We were here in April, when the crowds are lower, the heat is pleasant, and it’s possible to get into every restaurant you want to go to without having to book weeks in advance. Everything is opening up and coming to life, and you are given the opportunity to experience this gorgeous Mediterranean island at its very best.
Our visit to Noto was a key part of our holiday itinerary; one of the most beautiful baroque towns in Sicily, a UNESCO World Heritage site which was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1693. Wandering through the small streets with stunning palaces and churches on either side, there is a real sense of grandeur. Nothing epitomises that more than the reconstructed 18th-century Cathedral, built from honey-coloured limestone and taking pride of place overlooking the city centre. Like all of Noto, it’s best seen in the early evening when the setting sun turns the sandstone building a deep gold.
Perfect seclusion in nature
An easy drive from Noto, in the beautiful Sicilian countryside, is the eco-luxury resort, Country House Villadorata. Set in 23 hectares of olive groves, citrus orchards, and almond groves, which you are encouraged to walk and cycle through. The gentle rolling landscape is captivating, with views stretching to the coast at Vendicari, and the overall feeling is one of peace in complete harmony with nature.
As soon as you leave your car near the estate entrance and are met by friendly staff on a golf buggy, everything happens calmly and with the warmest and most hospitable Sicilian welcome anyone could hope for. The reception, breakfast room and restaurant are the hub of the estate, built in a simply lovely minimalist style. Just below that is a stunning, well-designed pool where we spent some time sunbathing and sipping an aperol spritz. Service is attentive, warm and with a genuine desire to please.
Sustainability is taken seriously here, and with impressive results. The estate follows biodynamic principles in its food production, which means no pesticides or fertilisers, and produce is used by the kitchen wherever possible. The focus on reducing emissions means that most of their own electricity is generated on-site by harnessing photovoltaic and thermal solar energy.
A room with a view
Within these 23 acres of nature are 15 rooms which vary from an impressive suite with private pool and garden to a deluxe terrace room in the former olive mill and a deluxe studio reached via a winding path through the olive and almond groves.
We were lucky enough to be in one of the luxurious Eco suites with our own plunge pool and a view to die for – rolling hills and the distant sea. All the accommodations provide privacy and the opportunity for total relaxation. The Eco suites are cubic in design and built of zinc, titanium and wood with huge floor-to-ceiling windows that allow you to fully appreciate the beauty of this wonderful landscape. A stylish terrace with comfortable chairs and a small table leads you inexorably to divinely comfortable loungers where you can listen to the sound of gurgling water as you dip in and out of an afternoon snooze.
Decor is sleek, stylish and airy. Room fragrances are all part of the Dr Vranjes collections, handmade products made with natural essences of the highest quality and other bath products are made with home-grown olive oil. Even the large bathroom had a full-length door that opened out to the enchanting scenery. We slept soundly in our room, with every comfort attended to.
Orti restaurant
Led by Chef Matteo Carnaghi, the menu at Orti is modern and deeply rooted in the ever-changing natural environment. We walked down to the restaurant and were ushered in and asked if we would like to join the Chef and his team in the intimate kitchen environment. Of course, we said yes.
The restaurant offers a single, flexible-length tasting menu, enabling the focus to be on quality, waste reduction and a laser-like attention to preparation. Many of the vegetables and fruits come from the immediate garden and orchards surrounding the restaurant, and each dish is shaped by what Sicily offers, meaning it is both vibrant and seasonal.
My antipasti was thinly sliced scallop with vibrant orange, turnip and brown butter. Like every course, it looked stunning and tasted beautiful. A risotto of the brightest green broad beans, peas and red prawns was sublime. Each dish was explained to us, and the Chef and all his team were warm and completely focused on our enjoyment. My second course was a perfectly cooked fish fillet, accompanied perfectly by celeriac, sour chicory and lemon. Just when I thought I couldn’t eat anything else, a plate of all my favourite things was presented. Delicate sweet strawberries, mascarpone, with a honey jelly and crisp. Our meal was accompanied by a superb bottle of the local wine, Etna Bianco.
The next morning, we enjoyed our breakfast in the restaurant with an abundance of fresh flavours and colours jumping off the plate. From a plate of home-grown orange and grapefruit slices, to local cheeses and meats, and bruschetta loaded with Sicilian tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. Too many tarts, cakes and savoury delights to even think of trying.
We walked back to our suite, accompanied by our doggie friend Peppi, one of the resident pets on the property. Like everyone else, he was warm, attentive and happy to be with us.
We left Country House Villadorata fully replenished and relaxed. A stay surrounded by the beauty of Sicilian nature, whether to the eye or on the plate.
For more information, visit: countryhouse.villadorata.com
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All images courtesy of Country House Villadorata.