As we take the lift up to the seventh floor of the five-star South Place Hotel, I’m nervous. One of my oldest and dearest friends Sam has just returned from a six-year stint overseas and I’m determined to impress him with a special reunion dinner. The thing is, he’s a chef. To ensure the food matches my charming company and his high expectations, we’re at the Michelin-starred Angler for top notch British seafood by executive chef Gary Foulkes.
Opened in 2012, Angler is located on the top floor of the first hotel from restaurant group D&D and gained a Michelin Star in 2013 which it still holds. The lift doors swish open to reveal a room full of natural light, acres of white linen and a dramatic mirrored ceiling. For privacy and space, request a table by a floor to ceiling window – our favourite is table 27.
The saying that “there are plenty of fish in the sea” is very true. What makes Angler different is that it is a Michelin-starred restaurant showcasing sustainable seafood from British seas and waters. We are presented with a tasting menu, which on Friday and Saturday evenings is the only option available. I toast Sam’s return with a glass of Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé as he scrutinises the menu with one eyebrow raised and then smiles, much to my relief!
Before we begin our six-courses, I enjoy a Cornish Gouda tart snack whilst my Sam interrogates our brilliant waiter on the seasonal produce. He explains that the menu is ever-changing to ensure the freshest ingredients and to reflect chef’s creativity. Our sommelier recommends a bottle of Terra d’Uva, a dry white wine with a minerality that lends itself well to fish.
The seafood procession begins with raw Orkney scallops doused in a tangy citrus sauce followed by cured monkfish with wasabi cream, pickled cucumber and dashi jelly, both beautifully presented like miniature works of art on enormous white plates, simply forcing me to take pictures, which I never do, much to Sam’s amusement.
I’m delighted he’s doing most of the talking as I devour the next two courses: tender red mullet and buttery Newlyn cod with line caught squid and chanterelles.
For dessert, a heady chocolate aero tart. I spy our fellow diners glancing over to check what’s to come and by now the lunchtime suits have given way to couples, families and groups of friends enjoying a special Friday night.
A popular Polish proverb said, “To taste good, fish must swim three times – in water, in butter, and in wine.” Angler ticks all of these boxes with picture pretty plates, on point service and seasonal British seafood. As the evening draws to a close while we reminisce about old times, a night-cap is very much in order. We head out onto Angler’s heated rooftop terrace for a Rosé Mémoire Laurent-Perrier winter cocktail as we look out over The City.
“I’m glad to be home” Sam said, “I think I’ll stay.” Angler simply had him hooked.
To book and discover more, visit: www.anglerrestaurant.com
By Elisa Sassoon
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