Set up by the late pre-eminent businessman and philanthropist David Tang, China Tang at The Dorchester was arguably the restaurant jewel in the Tang empire’s crown, and it’s easy to see why. Enveloped by the ever-classy Dorchester Hotel on London’s Park Lane, esteemed guests can elect to enter through the separate entrance on Park Lane, or (the better option) walk through the famous thoroughfare of the beautiful art deco hotel. Surrounding yourself with gleaming glass, black and gold accents and plush carpeting is the only way to arrive at a dinner reservation, didn’t you know?
China Tang can then be found through a discreet door at the back of The Dorchester’s Promenade; walk a few more steps and the warmth of the beautiful bar at China Tang welcomes you. Lucian Roventa, the assistant bar manager here, enthusiastically guides us to the leather stools at the bar and introduces us to Leo Surovec, the man who takes good care of us for the rest of the evening.
Ambience
The first thing that strikes you about China Tang is how warm and familial it is. Instead of feeling like a cold, plush high-end restaurant with stiff service, it feels like the warm embrace of a friend. The bar is low-key glamour, with thick carpeting surrounded by soft gold walls. The toilets are a work of art, with black accents, wooden walls and some very Instagrammable mirrors.
The main restaurant dining itself is abuzz with people enjoying themselves, and ornate Chinese yellow and gold tapestries lighting up the walls. In typical Chinese fashion, a lot of tables are large and round and meant for big celebrations or just catch-ups with groups of loved ones. Despite most of the décor being black, the space exudes a quiet luxury whilst also being welcoming and lively.
Drinks
Leo Surovec is the Head Mixologist at China Tang and is one of the kindest and most charming hospitality collaborators as well as being a rather talented photographer. Leo artfully guides us through the extensive cocktail menu, providing only the very best hospitality experience. We start with a refreshing classic whisky highball made with Suntory Toki Whisky and a selection of green olives and rice crackers.
Leo delivers yet more excellence with the very special Tokyo and the Sakura Martini, both available on the bar menu. The Tokyo is like a hyped-up Manhattan with an Oriental twist, combining Suntory Toki whisky again but this time with homemade Otoso (think Asian mulled wine based on sake and mirin), orange bitters and a sweet vermouth. A brilliant aperitivo.
The Sakura Martini is on the other end of the drink spectrum – clean Haku Vodka combined with Otoso Akashi-Tai Sake, Empirical’s The Plum I Suppose adding a marzipan depth, and tonka bean and palo santo. The palo santo, an ancient fragrant ‘holy’ wood used for centuries to heal and de-stress, elevates this drink from a normal vodka martini to a drink I can’t stop thinking about to this day. The cocktail innovates by recreating the taste and smell of a Sakura blossom without actually using any cherry blossom/related ingredients in it. It’s worth going to the bar just for this drink alone.
Leo insists we try the dim sum which he says is unrivalled in London, so we happily oblige. The food menus can be taken either in the main restaurant dining room or in the bar, which provides a cosier, more intimate ambience. Unlike the restaurant, which can be booked, the bar operates a walk-in-only policy.
Food
In the main restaurant, we start with Chicken Dumplings in spicy sauce, the Iberico Pork Siu Long Bao, and the classic prawn dumplings, Har Gau, all served with a very cold glass of champagne.
Having made a mental note that all dim sum should be served with champagne, I bite the top off my Siu Long Bao and slurp the hot porky soup within. It’s rich as well as restorative, and one of the better Siu Long Baos I’ve had in London.
The chicken dumplings are wonton-esque and served in a bowl with a chilli, ginger and garlic spiked sauce – very moreish. The Har Gau are also of excellent quality, and fabulous dipped in the house-made chilli oil.
We followed the dim sum with the roast duck. Although we didn’t have the opportunity to try the world-famous Peking Duck (one for next time), the roast duck is a good option for those who want to try more dishes on the menu. We order a half-roast duck between two, and it arrives crispy and cut to perfection, accompanied by the traditional wheat steamed pancakes, spring onion, cucumber and hoi sin. The duck is crispy and fatty yet full of flavour and incredibly moist.
For mains we choose zinging Szechuan peppercorn braised Dover sole fillets, almost fiery in its red hot broth, Yu Xiang aubergine and a fine Dry Scallop Egg White Fried Rice to soak up all the various juices.
We move back to the bar for dessert, craving a cosier, quieter ambience for pudding. A fine lemon salted egg yolk custard bun is served in a delicious-looking trio in an almost translucent pinky/purple colour, resembling an ethereal exotic-looking fruit. A fitting end to a lovely meal.
In short, if you’re ever craving high-end Chinese food in an inviting yet relaxed environment with next-level mixology and drinks, China Tang cannot be missed. Leo, Lucian and the team will be sure to take care of you and make sure you leave the restaurant feeling full, happy and energised.
To find out more, visit: chinatanglondon.co.uk
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All imagery courtesy of China Tang.