Duchy is a new restaurant in Shoreditch with a sharp regional focus: the cooking of the borderlands between France and Italy, from the Alps down to the Mediterranean coast. Inspired by the flavours of the former Duchy of Savoy, a historical region spanning parts of southeastern France and northwestern Italy, the menu shifts with the seasons. Each evening, a new handwritten menu is proposed to guests, ensuring that the dinner experience reflects the season that they’re in. In the winter, they favor hearty Alpine comfort foods, whereas the warmer seasons bring coastal seafood and vibrant antipasti to Mediterranean plates.

In a city where so many new openings chase trends or aesthetics, Duchy does the opposite: it narrows in, quiets down, and cooks with purpose. The menu changes all the time and this super seasonal approach is one we love.

The Chef: Simon Shand. 

Simon Shand runs the kitchen, and if his name sounds familiar, it should. He recently ran a residency at Topa in Provisions, Holloway Road, and trained at some of the most prestigious restaurants, such as Arbutus, Honey, and Frenchie. Shand used the lockdown to rethink both his life and his cooking. He focused on balancing the demands of hospitality with personal well‑being, rediscovering interests from his youth to stay healthy and emotionally centred.  Duchy marks his return to a more personal and regionally focused project. This is a chef in his stride, narrowing in on a region he understands and wants to explore through his voice.

He’s joined by Alex Grant, who worked alongside him at the now-closed, Michelin-starred Leroy, in this very same space. As operations lead at Leroy and now co-owner at Duchy, Grant brings a refined approach to front-of-house. There’s a grounded confidence in knowing when to step forward—and when to let the food and wine lead. It’s a quiet reunion, and the goal is simple: good food, thoughtful wine, and proper hospitality.

The Vibe: Familiar Bones, New Identity

Still located at 18 Phipp Street, the former Leroy site has been lightly refreshed rather than overhauled. Pale wood and clean lines keep things unfussy, while the vibe has loosened up: music is played from vinyl, not Spotify playlists, giving the space an intentional rhythm that mirrors the kitchen’s own. Duchy doesn’t erase Leroy’s past—it builds on it. The space still feels intimate and known to regulars, but it now has a warmer, less polished edge. The slight reworking of the interiors—sage-green tones, marble bar tops, vinyl display (over 200)—signals a shift from formality to familiarity without losing taste. You don’t just eat at Duchy—you settle in, like you’re at someone’s home who has great taste and no rush.

Also, the counter has two solo diner spots placed specifically for watching the kitchen work, a deliberate choice that encourages interaction and intimacy with the craft. This isn’t incidental seating—it’s an invitation. This is the kind of restaurant you could come to midweek and end up staying too long. It suits a solo diner who appreciates details, or a table of four ordering one too many bottles without regret. It’s grown-up, but not uptight.

The space encourages letting go. Service is confident, not stiff. You can come in jeans or dress up—it’s the kind of spot where you can have a third glass of wine and still talk about art or anchovies without looking over your shoulder.

The Food: Precise and Seasonal

Start here: Melon with foie gras. Cold fruit, rich liver, it’s indulgent but controlled. A stunt dish—just two ingredients meeting in the middle and making sense. If you want a lighter starter, try the Grilled British Asparagus with sauce gribiche, elegantly fresh but still satisfying, and a great way to start your Duchy experience.

Then, follow this up with the Vitello Tonnato: veal tartare at the base, topped with creamy anchovy sauce and a tangle of shoestring fries. It’s textural, punchy, and the kind of thing you start planning your return visit around.

The Italian Flat Beans are also a must-try: with gorgonzola, almonds, and loquats—bright, crisp, and ever-so-slightly sharp with a hit of honeyed fruit will truly be the highlight of your meal.

The Boudin Noir is bold and simple, spiced, earthy, and served with no frills. No garnish, no sauce trail—just a sausage that tastes like someone cared.

If you want a comfort meal, go for the Fresh Spaghetti with bottarga and olive oil, It is comforting, savoury, and satisfying without weightiness and will make you feel like you are having a home-cooked meal in a cosy location. 

The duck with cherries and walnut vinaigrette is cooked just pink, served with cherries and a walnut vinaigrette. It’s not trying to prove anything—it just lands. The kind of plate that’s small in size but eats like a main.

And to go with your meal, make sure to order Duchy’s house-baked fougasse, a rustic French flatbread, carries olive oil’s golden sheen and a crust that crackles under the touch.

Other Dishes

Other hits include brown crab arancini, pork and smoked eel croquettes, and anchovies with lardo on marjoram toast—are snacks with actual depth and will leave you wanting. However, larger plates like roast pork neck with courgettes and bagna cauda, red mullet with beurre blanc, or Dover sole Grenobloise will offer substance without heaviness, blending taste and tradition. There’s also the succulent Côte de Boeuf, a rich marbling, deep flavour, with tender texture for those who want to go big.

Desserts are unparalleled and quietly confident: Latte fritto with vanilla gelato, an ideal end your Duchy experience if you have a sweet tooth and cannoli with sweetened ricotta known for its richness and silken texture and a standout grilled strawberry gelato with Campari—sweet, bitter, and smoky in a way that sticks with you long after you leave your table.

Cocktails are also available, mixed to suit every mood, from bold and adventurous to smooth and refreshing. A standout is the Negroni Savoyard made with gin, vermouth, and bitters from Chambéry, the historical capital of the Savoie region. For those who prefer something classic, a refined selection of wines is also on offer, carefully chosen to complement any palate and elevate the experience.

Why Duchy Works

Duchy has what most new restaurants don’t: a clear concept and a team that can execute it without missing a beat. The focus is tight, and it shows in every dish. Nothing’s overthought, nothing’s overdone. Just precise food deeply rooted in the Duchy of Savoy’s region, sharp service, and a room that lets both stand out.

With just 40 seats, closely set tables, a communal counter, and a vinyl-driven soundtrack, the space hums with warmth and conversation. This isn’t just another new opening. It’s the kind of place where people who like food will keep going back to.

To discover more, visit Duchy.

 

All imagery courtesy of Duchy Restaurant.