The Masai Mara
No matter how many wildlife documentaries you’ve seen, not even David Attenborough can prepare you for the real thing. The term safari comes from a Swahili word meaning journey. I went on a journey to Kenya to experience three safari camps with Great Plains Conservation, an ultra-luxury experience in Masai Mara. Nothing is quite like flying across the national park into the airstrips where lions roam freely on the runway, taking a ride deep into the wilderness and immersing yourself in the serene silence of nature and the vast beautiful landscape of Kenya.
A night at Hemingways Nairobi
Starting off our adventure in Nairobi, we stayed at the Hemingways Nairobi which was only a 30 minutes car journey from the international airport and 20 minutes from Wilson Airport – it is the perfect place to settle into the new time zone and decompress from your flight in style and comfort. This 45-room boutique hotel showcases its grand personality with its colonial-style building, lined with beautifully manicured lawns, and a grand double staircase upon entering the lobby. No wonder they are recent winners in the Fodor’s Finest Hotels list.
Our room was light and airy using a mix of contemporary and classic designs within the décor, highlighting the king-size four-poster bed, large flat screen TV that cleverly emerges from the huge trunk comfortably positioned in front of your bed. Every room within the hotels offers a balcony or terrace looking onto the sprawling gardens. The spacious bathroom shows off its world-class amenities, Italian marble design with two sinks, a freestanding bathtub, shower room and an envious walk-in wardrobe.
The hotel offers a tranquil atmosphere away from the bustle of central Nairobi, with a large outdoor pool lined with inviting sun loungers, a spa, steam room and sauna, and a small yet impressive gym. The Hemingways Collection is the definitive collection of luxury boutique properties in Kenya combining city, safari and beach with the warm hospitality of the Kenyan people. Each property in the collection has its own history and personality, underpinned by exceptional service and hospitality. To discover more, visit: hemingways-collection.com/nairobi
Getting to Masai Mara
The favoured route for a Masai Mara safari is by flying from Nairobi Wilson Airport (WIL). From here it is a short (between 45 and 60 minutes) flight to the Mara. With several airstrips in and around the Masai Mara, which one you fly into will depend on where you decide to stay during your safari. Upon your arrival at the airstrip closest to your camp, a car will be waiting. You will instantly see the abundance of wildlife, and upon touchdown we were warmly greeted by a lone male lion proudly passing through the airstrip!
Great Plains Conservation
Dereck and Beverly Joubert are conservationists, filmmakers, and National Geographic Explorers at large who founded Great Plains back in 2006, with their core commitment in supporting the wildlife and local communities within the Masai Mara. Great Plains have huge involvement with local community projects and local villages, there is the opportunity for you to gain a first-hand insight into the work that they do. In addition, guests are encouraged to help with their tree re-plantation programme where guest can plant a tree within the property. Working with local communities, the Conservation Grows programme has seen more than 2000 trees planted in and around the Masai Mara, helping to restore indigenous trees to the landscape and teaching the value of indigenous trees in functioning ecosystems.
Each guest contributes to the success of the conservancy’s flourishing ecosystem as conservation fees paid safeguard this habitat, while supporting many local families. This partnership agreement ensures the survival of an astounding volume and variety of wildlife.
Mara Expedition Camp
Located near to its famous big sister camp Mara Plains, Mara Expedition Camp offers guests a refined and intimate traditional tented camping experience within the famed Masai Mara region. Sitting at the heart of the action, this area is teaming with an abundance of wildlife and fauna.
We arrived to a grand welcome from Camp Manager Dee and the whole team, showing us the real Kenyan hospitality from the moment we arrived. Checking in was swift and efficient, wasting none of our precious time in this surreal setting, we were taken to our room talking through all the amenities by our very knowledgeable room attendant Dickie.
Mara Expedition camp offers just 5 tents accommodating up to 10 guests spaced out within the compound. The intimacy of this camp is one of the main highlights radiating a rare and very real feel of authenticity. Between the camp amenities and the warm and attentive staff, no comfort is overlooked.
Our Room
The camp is tented safari style, however do not worry as these tents are incomparable to your local camping shop, taking the experience to a whole new level of luxury. Due to the sustainable tourism practised in the Masai Mara, no fixed structures are allowed, meaning all materials are sustainable or recycled and everything is placed in a way to be removed without a trace, this led to unique and creative camp styles and design references from the old, authentic exhibition camps while incorporating many touches of modern luxury comforts.
Settling into our room, we marvelled at the attention to detail dotted throughout from the well though out charging stations to the hot water bottles placed in our bed every night. The layout had a smartly positioned the bathroom behind the bed which is sectioned off via curtains, fitted with an antique shower and brass finishes. The comfortable oversized bed sits centre of the main room and gives a view out to the bush, where we saw our fashionably dressed neighbours (a pair of zebras grazing). Once the sun has fallen, sounds from various animals fills the air, from bats to roars from lions in the distance. Do not worry as at night we are escorted round the camp by the team, a safety procedure done throughout all camps.
Food & Drink experience
All meals are included within camp, along with an extensive selection of drinks and alcoholic beverages, with an extensive wine list, and an impressive array of botanical gins. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are provided, with flexibility on timings adjusted to your excursions on the day. Considering we are deep in the Masai Mara the quality of fresh ingredients was outstanding, many of which come from the well-kept vegetable garden on the grounds or from local markets. For those who want something a little more special, breakfast or lunch are available out on the game drives, or dine in the open-air chef kitchen. We were masterfully looked after by Ken who mixed some fab cocktails too.
The communal tent offers a cosy and chic interior design with dark wooden chests, gorgeous leather and beaded floor cushions, brass lamps and Persian rugs. On one side of the tent is a lounge area, while the other hosts a large table for optional communal dining where you’ll get to trade stories of your adventures. Other amenities include the plunge pool with sun loungers where you can cool off from the sun.
The Wildlife
The activities at Mara Expedition focus very firmly on wildlife. The surrounding bush is prime big-cat country with access to both the Masai Mara National Reserve and Olare Motorogi Conservancy. Our private drive in the two open-sided Land Cruisers enabling panoramic views and great photographic opportunities – Canon 50D cameras are available for guests to borrow. Not to mention the vehicles also have fully stocked fridges! Our guide Frank was an expert on the area and we discovered so many animals including the big five. Experiencing safari outside the migration is a great experience as you see all the animals and you are more likely to have a car and guide all to yourself.
In addition, extra goodies include a Mara Plains water bottle are super useful while out on the drive and there is a booklet with information all about-the species of diverse animal life within the ecosystem – a fun way to see and can tick off the list of animals you encounter.
Mara Plains Camp
Considered one of the most prestigious and renowned safari camps in Kenya, Mara Plains offers an intimate and secluded luxury that combined unparalleled adventure into one of the most iconic wildlife destinations on the planet. Truly a one-of-a-kind luxury Kenyan safari camp located in the private 35,000-acre Olare Motorogi Conservancy, this is the heart of the greatest predator country in Africa. There is no better place for a combination of luxury and nature.
To enter Mara Plains you have to walk across the wooden footbridge over the Ntiakatek River, where you’ll get an instant sense of nature. Tucked away on a raised platform in the canopy of lush vegetation and trees along the river where bloats of hippopotamus play in the river below and crocodiles sleep alongside the riverbank, there is also an adorable local resident impala that was rescued as an orphan which roams freely throughout the grounds. All the while offering an endless view of the horizon with one, single, flat-topped tree – the quintessential icon of East Africa.
The design of the camp compliments and respects the surrounding natural environment making sure to effortlessly blend in with the picturesque landscape. The camp has gone to extensive measures to minimise their impact on the environment – from solar power to waste management, every process has been thoughtfully examined with sustainability in mind.
Mara Plains consists of a communal area and seven sleeping tents hosting up to 14 guests. The central area includes 3 interconnected marquis-style tents overlooking the plains. The area is divided into two lounges, a dining room, wine room, library and writing area, and extensive decking. Comfortably furnished, the décor is rich in browns, coppers and red and is carefully curated with black leather sofas, directors’ chairs, vintage trunks, Persian carpets and incredible artworks and prints of cheetahs, lions and leopards. In the evening the space is lit by candles, views of the sun slowing fading away in the horizon, encouraging a relaxing break and a moment to take in the surreal experience of the days’ adventures.
Our Suites
A total of seven suites, which are more in similarity to royal marquees than tents, each with its own private terrace overlooking the Mara, are on raised decks, showcasing the beautiful rustics hardwood floor. Walking to and from our tent through the lush canopy is an experience within itself, making us feel like real-life explorers of the past. Paying homage to the rich heritage and history of East Africa, the room’s interior boasts vibrant Masai colours (deep reds and purples) and rich leather, copper and brass harks back to the past days of explorers.
Within the suite, there is a quaint sitting area with leather chairs, ample storage space, and an alluring king-size bed with spectacular views of the river below where crocodiles and hippos pass through. We seamlessly blend to co-exists with the surrounding environment. The lavish en-suite bathroom is a real gem, from indulging in the beautiful brass bathtub to enjoying the openness of the wooden overhead shower. There is a sitting area outside on the spacious private terrace but don’t forget to hook the zip closed, or you might have uninvited guests. Apparently, the monkeys like to snack as much as we do!
For those with family or just looking for something GRAND, the Mara Plains Jahazi Suite offers 607 square-metres of pure opulence. This two-bedroom villa is set aside In a secluded corner of the camp enjoying the highest level of privacy and intimacy. Upon entering the ornate chunky wooden doors from Swahili enclave of Lamu, you will appreciate the thought process gone into honouring the local heritage. At the centre of the suite is the lounge area, with a grand 8-seater dining table and a spacious area dedicated to sofas and armchairs which opens out onto the private veranda that circles the entire tent where you’ll get access to your own private pool, which has been very recently installed. We had the chance to stay for a night, setting a new standard for a world leading luxurious safari experience.
The wildlife
As we are in a private conservancy guests can go for bush walks and night game drives (until 9pm), all of which can be arranged. There were no time schedules or set rules allowing us to tailor our stay to our preferences. The area has the lowest vehicle density and the highest concentration of big cats in the Mara, not to mention over 300 local bird species. Our incredible guide, Charity, had an impressive and extensive knowledge of the area, culture and wildlife. So don’t be afraid to ask any questions regarding pretty much anything about the experience.
Her warm and kind nature made the experience just that extra bit purer and more authentic. She knew exactly where to take us to get up close and personal with some of the most illusive animals, from cheetahs, to lions and leopards. One of our most memorable drives was an early morning drive, waking up at 5am catching a glimpse of the slow sunrise over the footbridge. We were driving around in the 4×4 open jeep stocked with traditional Kenyan blankets, pastries, Masala Chai, and fabulous Swarovski binoculars. Hot air ballooning and cultural visits to a local village are available as well at an additional cost.
Food & Drink experience
Meals are served family style in the main tent under the ornate chandeliers, in the wine room or outside by the camp fire. On the first night we arrived at the camp, we tried Ostrich for the first time, filleted and cooked medium, it tastes similar to grass-fed beef but resembles low-fat game meats like venison. When it’s not the world’s largest bird on the menu, the cuisine often consist of refined European, African or Asian cuisines. Moving later on into the night we had drinks by the campfire, looking up at the vivid stars from the absolute clear skies. The perfect way to wind down from the day.
Mara Nyika Camp
Mara Nyika Camp, meaning “Large Plains or Great Plains,” the newest addition to the Great Plains family in Kenya and is a 45-minute drive from Mara Plains, depending on how many animals you see on the way. Located in Naboisho Conservancy, one of the largest in greater Masai Mara covering over 50,000 acres of prime wildlife country which is owned by the local Masai people. The area is known for its diverse terrain from acacia woodland, grass plains, hills and deep river valleys.
Perched on raised decks set amidst shade of the iconic flat-topped acacia trees, Shadrack and the team at Mara Nyika conjure a magical tree house atmosphere rising above the canopy, allowing for uninterrupted parallel of the surrounding valley. The communal area hosts the lounge, dinning room and a shop opens out onto the wide decking which encompasses the front of the camp looking out onto the landscape.
Our Room
The tents are connected by meandering wooden walkways, unlike the other two Great Plains properties we’ve been to in the Masai Mara where tents offer an open-plan layout. Our one-bedroom suite is constructed by three individual interconnecting tents. The first consists of the entrance and lounge area with access to the large outdoor patio, the second section is the bedroom where the beds are made up with soft linens for modern comforts, and the third is the bathroom featuring the classic copper bathtub that resides next to the floor-to-ceiling insect-screen cover, allowing you to enjoy the view while having a soak.
The design of the room radiates a feeling of nostalgia, using contemporary luxury while highlighting at the exploratory pioneer past, from wooden chests, barrels for drinks-tables, directors chairs, brass lamps and Persian rugs. Hard-wood floors and canvas walls and roofs add to the luxury.
Food & Drink experience
A lot of the dining action happens In the communal tent, where a dining table and various smaller tables spread across the surrounding deck circling the camp fire, allowing you to eat in private or join other guests, not to mention the private dining available in the comfort of your own patio if you request It.
We arrived for lunch where we were greeted by fresh bread and a beautifully constructed platter of a variety of healthy salad options from a mixture of beetroot, avocado, grains and sublime dressings, which was accompanied by a cheeseboard of local Kenyan cheeses. The standard of service is maintained throughout all the Great Plains camps allowing for a homely familiarity and a seamless transition from one camp to another. Best of all, if you are staying at a few Great Plains camps, your preferences from each camp are communicated to the next to ensure you are always delighted and surprised.
Local Culture
Those looking to truly immerse themselves within the rich heritage and culture of the region, we recommend a cultural visit to the nearby village to gain a deeper understanding of the local way of life. Locally produced crafts such as jewellery and souvenirs are availability to purchase from the shop within camp with all processes going towards the local community and particle woman’s charity groups and schools. There is also an opportunity to visit the local ladies beading workshop to try for yourself at beading the iconic Kenyan jewels or just to see the true craftsmanship involved.
Final thoughts
Stepping into the Garden of Eden that is Great Plains, they have mastered the rare balance of luxury and traditional safari authenticity. Great Plains Conservation took us back to the nostalgic past of living like a real-life explorer while maintaining world-class standards of modern luxury comforts. There is no doubt Great Plains holds its own amongst the best camps in Africa. What made the experience truly special was the friendly and professional team who created a personal, intimate stay.
To discover more, visit: greatplainsconservation.com
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All imagery courtesy of Great Plains Conservation.