Call me a sceptic, but I’ve always felt London never quite ‘got it’ when it came to tacos. Tacos are simple. The complexity comes from hour-long marinades and careful cooking techniques. It’s an act of love and patience. In the hustle of the big city, where time is money, there has been a loss of appreciation for this process. Too often, tacos are dumbed down, designed to look great on Instagram but subpar on the palette. TA-KO London has shattered this status quo.
There’s an honest charm behind the doors of TA-KO, Stoke Newington’s latest Taqueria. Friends Mike, Niall, and Stuart, the team behind the well-loved cocktail joint Victory Mansion, have founded a gastronomic game-changer. Mexican street food meets Asian flavours, resulting in a staggeringly impressive menu. They cut no corners.
The Cocktails
Private members clubs and Michelin-studded establishments of West London – take note. TA-KO have reached new levels of complexity with their cocktails. TA-KO London takes the negroni, margarita, old fashioned, whiskey sour and paloma, and gives diners an array of variation, twinkling with imagination. The Banana Boulevardier Negroni is a subtle take on a classic negroni, pairing Campari with homemade banana liqueur for a thick, layered drink, rich without being too sweet.
They have nailed the flavour profile of each drink . This is no mean feat. Mandarin & Lemongrass Margarita combines fresh aromatics with classic citrus, whereas Sesame Rye Old Fashioned is darker and malty. Apricot & Smoke Margarita mixes mezcal with apricot brandy. Think hazy, warm evenings, nestled under apricot trees. Ideal for sipping alfresco style on their outside terrace.
The Starters
TA-KO understands the food it serves. Before anything is placed before us, three sauces are presented: Blackberry Sriracha, Nahm Jim (a zingy type of fish sauce), and Sesame Chilli Crisp. A nonverbal invitation invites the diner to eat as they please, dunking and dipping whenever necessary.
Ceviche Tostadas come loaded with sea bass ceviche and tiny cubes of watermelon pickled with fresh lime. Two variations of crispy rice – Spicy Shiitake and Kare Kare also grace the table. The latter was particularly good. An indulgent mix of oxtail and beef short rib paired with a surprising addition of almond butter. Nutty, luxurious, and just enough to see me through to the main event.
The Tacos
I thought tacos could only go so far in flavour…. oh, was I wrong. Carnivores, I implore you; do not flick over the vegetarian choices. TA-KO’s Cauliflower may have been one of the best things I have tasted of 2024, so far. Light, crispy, buttery and served with a black bean and tamarind ragù, sumptuous and smoky.
The Sea bass came torched, licked with charcoal flames, atop a mandarin sambal and pickles to sooth the heat. Serve these to me on a beach and I’m in heaven. Particularly, the Pork was unforgettable, melting into a zippy kimchi packed with personality.
Every element on TA-KO’s menu has a purpose. Even the sides, so often the maltreated victims of an afterthought, stood their ground as diners fought to snap up the last daringly outrageous ‘MSG’ fry (TA-KO make their own MSG), or swapped bites of tacos for bites of Cucumber Salad, creamy with a coconut tahini dressing.
Behind TA-KO
Sustainability is a big buzzword in hospitality. Whether it’s QR codes screaming at you as your phone hovers over them or restaurants incorporating carrot tops into dishes, all a strong effort that maximizes profit margins. Like the flat Prosecco they recharge for spritzes, sustainability is gently infused and embedded within the heart of the restaurant.
As Mark led me to the private dining room, large barrels and neatly stacked bottles lined the walls on the left, with the open kitchen operating on the right. There, leftover white wine is fortified for negronis, then sold to other restaurants looking to follow TA-KO London’s lead. Ottolenghi is one of them. Looking at the kitchen, dining table, and miniature factory, I’m struck by how symbiotic it all is; TA-KO don’t faff around with fancy candles or outrageous lamp shades. All their energy goes into the ingredients.
It’s why their Pickled Jalapeño Margarita, infused with leftover jalapeños, or their Sesame Rye Old Fashioned, using syrup from spare toasted sushi rice, taste different to any cocktail I’ve tried before. The complexity comes – not from a firecracker and dry ice – but the time taken with the recipes. Each syrup has to be infused for 24 hours before it can be added.
TA-KO is slap bang in the middle of London’s alternative, artsy hub. Yet it doesn’t try to replicate the unapologetically gimmicky establishments of Dalston. No neon signs or basement DJ here. Rather, it’s relatively simple; the details are found in the light crunch of pickles, depth of marinades, and flourish of garnishes.
Mike, Niall and Stuart, alongside chef Jesse Cecchetto, have poured their heart into TA-KO; their passion flavours every dish. TA-KO is a hidden gem, soon to line your foodie Instagram. And, unlike others, it’ll be worth the hype. Just make sure you’re there before the queues start…
Great for: Casual dining with immaculate vibes!
What to order: Cauliflower tacos, ‘MSG’ fries, Pickled Jalapeño Margarita
Why go? It won’t stay a ‘hidden gem’ for long…
For more information, visit ta-ko.uk
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All imagery courtesy of TA-KO London.