The Birth of Kavka Vodka
Jan Woroniecki has created an artisanal brand that wins over longstanding Vodka sceptics. Defying expectations, Kavka’s portfolio of spirits are those which one can really relish. Together with master Distiller, Urszula Wojcik, the spirits have been developed with character and individuality, wielding the traditional Polish methods that date back to the 18th century. Made in western Poland, the award-winning Kavka Estate distillation marries together, rye and wheat spirits with a blend of apple and plum. It offers depth, a touch of natural sweetness and a clean profile, which packs a punch, yet glides down oh, so smoothly. It’s a conversion of the highest order, with an impressive array of flavours crafted to shoot, mix, sip and savour.
There are three main expressions in the Kavka collection: Kavka Estate Vodka (40%); Kavka Tokaji Cask Aged (46%) and Kavka Orchard Plum & Apple (38%). The latter is best served with a tonic (as a gin replacement), for a sweet and refreshing beverage. The Kavka Tokaji Cask Aged is the highest proof spirit, carefully crafted in small batches, its signature serving is in an espresso martini, which showcases the lasting depth and rich-dry balance. Citrusy and fresh, the original Kavka Estate is perfect for a frozen martini, with its full-bodied dry fruitiness.
A Treasured Abode
Ognisko, exceeding expectations, preserves the essence of Eastern and Central European cuisines in a beautiful Victorian home that houses the Polish Hearth Club, (a private members club founded shortly after WWII). Shared with a theatre and an exhibition space, all of which contribute to the precious circle of Polish culture, the restaurant is in the safe hands of Jan Woroniecki, as the legacy lives on.
Still keeping the home fire burning after 75 years, the restaurant retains the character of an officer’s mess. As you first walk in, to the right-hand side, a wooden plaque listing the names of life members is notable. The ceilings are high and the hallways long, with remarkable, intricate ceiling plasterwork and ornamental balusters. Above the bar, portraits proudly hang, of significant military officials — gone but never forgotten. A Polish eagle tapestry is also present, symbolising the sovereignty and unity of the state.
The dining area is laid out in a banqueting style with the individual tables arranged into long rows. Crisp, white table linen, set the scene for a candle-lit dinner. Guests are smartly dressed but it is not at all staid, it’s warm and welcoming, homely even, with tables bustling with laughter and chatter. There is a terrace overlooking the Prince’s Gardens, and it is fitted with a fairy-lit canopy, overhead heating and blankets for the colder months.
A Warming Feast — Fit for a King
Whilst Eastern European cuisine is not widely popular, the gastronomy is impeccable and holds a distinctive sentiment that is highly underrated. It’s comfort food in its truest form. It’s warm, and nostalgic and fills you up until you’re brimming with goodness. We’re talking fish, rich meats and hearty vegetables, roasted, stewed, boiled, fermented and fried.
My feast began with the nation’s favourite, Pierogi, a creamy potato and cheese filling, encased in a thin and crispy dumpling wrapper, sprinkled with fried onions and served alongside a large dollop of sour cream. It’s a simple yet comforting crowd-pleaser. I also sampled the Spiced Chicken Liver (with dried cherries), atop Placki, a potato pancake, shallow fried for a crunchy coat and tender centre. Once again, a simple hit: sweet, savoury, crispy and tender.
To accompany my meal, what is more fitting than a signature Ognisko cocktail? I opted for the Ladies on Fire, for those with a sweet tooth, this mix is the one for you. Shaken with Passion Fruit Syrup, Almond Syrup, Lemon Juice and Angostura Bitters, it is crafted with the original Kavka Vodka.
Following on, the Half Duck appeared on a wooden platter, roasted and drenched in a rich sauce with Apple Compote and Red Cabbage. Accompanied by Kasza (buckwheat), the flavours found in this divine dish, are nutty, sweet, savoury, sour and overall it is heartwarming. The incorporation of fruit and pickled vegetables gives the dish an edge. Juicy, tender duck, bursting with flavour can be found amongst the finest establishments. It may not be easy but it sure is found.
The significance of this dish lies in the combination of ingredients that complement each other beautifully. This dish is called Kaczka Pieczona, and it’s after that sacred spot that all Sunday roast lovers have in their hearts (it’s certainly taken mine).
Perfectly Paired
Such a meal calls for another cocktail and the Orchard Cosmopolitan is just the one for this dish. With a blend of Kavka Orchard Vodka, Cranberry juice, Fortunella Liqueur and Lime juice, it’s sharp, it’s citrusy, sharp, mildly sweet and smooth.
There’s always room for dessert, and from poached Plums soaked in Rosé Wine with Almonds and Goat’s Curd to Pulkownik, a selection of vodka sorbet, it can be hard to narrow it down to just one. But, the Apple Strudel needs no second guessing, it’s filled with spiced warmth and dusted with a snowy, sugar powder, served with vanilla ice cream, cookie crumbles and a strawberry drizzle.
To bring the feast to an end at Ognisko, one might consider having a calming tea or coffee (Polish, of course). However, it’s seemingly proper to end the meal with shots of flavoured vodka from Poland’s orchards. The Wisniówka (Cherry) is a treat, sharp and sweet with an irresistible aroma. Amongst the other flavours are, Prune, Pear, Orange & Ginger, Aged Honey and Herb, Caramel & Fig.
In a nutshell
Standing talent on Exhibition Road in South Kensington, Ognisko not only offers a showcase of gastronomy and culture but also stands as a tribute to Polish history, where every sip is a journey through time. There’s no wincing involved, just sips to savour with the house-infused Kavka Vodka.
To discover more, visit: ogniskorestaurant.co.uk
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All imagery courtesy of Ognisko Restaurant / Kavka Vodka.