Mâitre d’ Matthew O’Connor is a legend. We all know and love our Matt. This rugby-loving lad started his career at Pizza Express before moving to Brasserie Blanc. He was at Dinner By Heston for the opening and subsequent 4 years, starting as a runner and spending the last 2 years as Mâitre d’. Matt then moved to NYC to work for Danny Meyer at The Modern, followed by The Savoy Grill before heading to Tom Kerridge for 4 years as Restaurant Director, Group Guest Relations and Business Development Director. Returning to the role of Mâitre d’, Matt most recently spent a year at Bacchanalia.
Today, Matthew O’Connor is the Head Mâitre d’ at Dovetale in 1 Hotel Mayfair. Renowned for its impeccable hospitality, the restaurant stands out in Mayfair and London’s fine dining scene. Join us for an exclusive interview with Matt, who shares insights about hospitality and much more.
How did it all start?
My first ever job was when my uncle Pete gave me £20 to do a KP shift at his restaurant Blazing Saddles in my home town at the age of 10. My first full-time job was a KP and waiter role in the local Pizza Express in Alton when I left college, realising higher education wasn’t for me. Everything escalated from there and I still consider my years on the High Street as valuable as any other restaurant that followed.
Tell us about the restaurant experience at Dovetale and what makes it different?
Dovetale is one of the most incredible restaurants I have seen, let alone worked in. The room and terrace is stylish, generous, and warm. Chef Tom Sellers and our Executive Chef Tom Anglesea have absolutely nailed the menu in that it’s accessible to so many due to the scale, variety, and familiarity, but every dish is executed and elevated to a level that blows your mind. To sum it up, I would say: ingredients driven and plated with humility. The food is consistent and comes out in good time, and guest feedback is brilliant.
Every day feels fresh and exciting and that is a credit to the entire hotel and restaurant team. The Front-of-House team is young, diverse, charming and keen, and that makes a big difference these days. Our space transitions so naturally throughout the day, week and year that you can come for a business lunch, quick bite, celebration, or just pop in for a drink and still feel and understand the concept. The hotel and ownership (Crosstree) are forward thinking, creative and current, so we evolve and activate all kinds of cool ideas daily, which is refreshing. The marketing, branding, and identity are imperative to our success.
Dovetale at 1 Hotel for me is non-judgmental hospitality at its finest.
Mayfair is a bit of a hotel heaven but people say 1 Hotel is one of the best. Tell us about the hotel concept and why you love it so much?
The word that immediately came to mind upon my arrival is organic. The 1 Hotel properties are industry leaders in their sustainable and thoughtful approach to what a 5-star hotel should look like today. I honestly was a little sceptical upon my research pre-interviewing that it might be a bit woke for me, but from the moment I stepped foot in the building, I got it.
The 1 Hotels refer to their bedrooms as YOUR sanctuary, and this really emanates throughout the property. What I love about the place so much is we really do provide escapism and wellness to anyone who visits, but that can involve food, booze, music and fun. It’s my sort of therapy!
How has the London restaurant scene changed in the years you have been working there?
It’s crazy how much things have changed. There are amazing differences in terms of pay, culture, and work-life balance compared to when I started out. Covid and Brexit were catastrophic in terms of recruitment and quality of staff, but as an industry, we are slowly getting through the storm.
What many guests sometimes forget is that most London restaurants are staffed with 30% less of the workforce than 3 years ago. Ultimately, this knock-on effect impacts menu offerings, service demands, opening hours, and profit margins. Online delivery has saved so many companies but also massively reduced footfall in restaurants. The international clientele changes nowadays according to World affairs, and the public expects more for less due to the cost of living pressures we all feel nowadays.
What would you say to someone who wants a career in hospitality?
Personally, I would advise anyone to try to get as much experience as possible from a young age. A part time job while at school is a great way of getting a feel for the industry before you are asked to make decisions on college and future plans. If there is an early love for hospitality, then get stuck in straight away. Time, experience, and longevity in the trade teach you more than any classroom.
Top three tips to being a great leader:
Being fun. Showing kindness. Empowering your team.
If you could award a Michelin star right now, who would it be and why?
There are a couple of places right now who I’d love to get the recognition they deserve: The Baring by Rob Tecwyn and The Grill by Tom Booton at The Dorchester.
What are your favourite restaurants in London?
All the ones I just gave a star to. My go-to recommendations and big favourites have to be The Devonshire and Fallow; aside from their top-notch menus, they also do a bloody good Guinness on tap!
If you were to ask me what a perfect London food day out is to me, it would obviously start with lunch at Bibendum, truly the most memorable meal I’ve had. To finish, a Pizza Express on the sofa, it’s got to be an American Hot on a Romana base. Now, that would be a fab day of eating.
What will the London food scene look like in 5 years time?
My hope is that we protect the human element of service as much as possible and avoid losing too many jobs to AI. A lot of High Street chains have started to move towards solely operating via touch-screen ordering with staff mainly working back of house, and in the next five years, I wonder if this will be the case across the board for these businesses. I think it’s important that we reinstate the importance of humans and service for great dining experiences.
I also think we will see hotels gradually dominate the lists of the best dining spots. We have already seen so many incredible hotels opening with incredible chefs at the helm of their kitchens, and many more are in the pipeline.
Due to high rates, many restaurants are unlikely to be able to continue in the form we currently recognise and may have to start moving into dark kitchens and delivery services taking over. I hope the government will be able to provide a much needed break in taxes to the industry. This would also hopefully lead to the re-growth of local independent eateries and the return of the Great British pub culture, reinstating these venues back into the hearts of local communities.
Finally, we need to carry on investing in our restaurateurs and hospitality professionals with government-backed apprenticeships.
What is next for Dovetale?
Tomorrow’s service! You’re only as good as your last one.
To discover more about Dovetale, click here.
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All imagery courtesy of Dovetale / 1 Hotel Mayfair.